On Tuesday, we spent $25 to enter the Shenandoah National Park (good for 7 days) which runs north of the Blue Ridge Parkway once you cross interstate 64. The road through the park is known as “Skyline Drive.” The speed limit on Skyline Drive is 35 mph except when it’s slower. We entered Shenandoah National Park at the Swift Run Gap Entrance Station and did 3 short hikes and stopped at a couple of overlooks as we drove south back towards Interstate 64. The park was established in 1935 and has over 500 miles of trails. Skyline Drive follows the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains for 105 miles and has 75 scenic overlooks.
We hiked the South River Trail, the Frasier Discovery Trail, and the Blackrock Summit Trail.
Photos from the South River Trail (mile 63) —
Crossing a streamA view of the falls
Rocky Top Overlook View and scenic drive —
Rocky Top OverlookTypical view on Skyline Drive
Our second hike was the Frasier Discovery Trail which was a fairly steep trail through a forest to an overlook at the the top of Loft Mountain.Overlook View 1Overlook View 2In the woodsWe were excited to be on the Appalachian Trail for part of our hikePhotos from the Blackrock Summit Hike —Walking under a big rockA view from the summitLots of rocks at the summitMore rocksAnd more rocks
We ended our day out by splitting a glass of wine at the lovely Afton Vineyards.The tasting roomThe vines and the Blue Ridge MountainsThe lake behind the tasting room
On Monday, we traveled about 45 minutes southwest out of Charlottesville to the Sherando Lake Recreation Area. This is a beautiful park in the Blue Ridge Mountains where you can swim, hike, picnic, and/or camp. There were a number of families enjoying the lake, but Bob and I had a great 3+ hour hike by combining a number of trails. It was $8 per car to enter. We have had lovely hiking conditions — temps in high 80s or low 90s with LOTS of shade.
The Bath House near the lakeOur first view of the lakeThe beach and lakeAn island in the lakeRounding the lake and heading into the woods — and hillsCrossing a clear stream that shows this region’s red soilGetting a view of the surrounding mountains through the treesLook at these tree-covered mountains!Connecting with the Torrey Ridge Trail from the Blue Loop TrailWe saw this at the end of our walk — good to know
Just down the road from where we are staying is Walnut Creek Park, a 525 acre Albermarle County park with 2 great swimming areas and 15 miles of hike and bike trails. It’s disc golf course is also quite popular. Bob and I spent a couple of hours on Thursday hiking around about half of the park.
The main swimming area shortly before 11 am, when the lake is open for swimming.Part of the disc golf courseThe edge of the lake as we entered the trail areaOn the trailAn old homestead on the park groundsAnother view of the lake and part of the disc golf courseThe second swimming area after 11Enjoying the viewA section of the park that had a fire or was purposefully burnedA new (to me) plant that I thought was cute — it looked like something that should be growing under waterMushroom mania
The estates of three former presidents — Jefferson, Monroe, and Madison — are all in the Charlottesville area. They are not cheap to visit. Monticello, the one we were most interested in visiting is $25 per adult. We weren’t $50 interested. However, there are trails on and near the estate that you can access for free. The Saunders-Monticello Trail is a 2 mile, mostly boardwalk, trail that runs along the parkway to the estate. We hiked that trail to see the Visitors Center and gift shop. After that, we hiked a second trail for some views of the area.
(Side Note: I hadn’t previously mentioned this, but our homeowners are allowing us the use of their Prius. This is awesome, as there is not much within walking distance of their home and public transportation is iffy for many of the sites.)
One section of the boardwalkCrossing the Saunders Bridge onto the Monticello propertyA stone erected at a picnic area on the property -– no mention of his slave ownershipThe Visitors Center and gift shop — from here ticketed visitors catch a shuttle to the houseStarting up the Jason Stevens TrailA view from the trailAnother glimpse through the foliage Ash Lawn-Highland is the name of the official residence of James Monroe, the 5th president of the United States. it is just down the road from Monticello. It is a 535 acre estate. While this was only $14/adult to visit, we decided to pass but hope to return in early August as it will be the site of the Abermarle County fair.
The tree-lined drive onto the propertyThe Visitors Center and gift shopSome information on the three local heroes
Also along the road we were traveling is the Carter Mountain Orchard, famous locally with apples, peaches, and Thursday evening music nights (mostly bluegrass). It also has a great overlook of Charlottesville and the surrounding area.
The bakery, shop, and taproom (for their hard cider)The view to the south (opposite direction from C’ville)Looking towards C’ville
Another famous landmark along the same route is Michie’s Tavern. This is a historic tavern with a restaurant serving Southern fare plus a gift shop and tours. We again skipped the tours and food (having just had a lovely picnic at the orchard). We did walk around the property as much as we could and perused the gift shop.
The tavern and restaurantAn old mill wheel in the gift shop
Finally, we veered off of the main road to check out Blenheim Vineyards which had been recommended to us by the homeowner of an upcoming house sit. On the way, we passed the Trump Winery. (You can decide whether or not we stopped there. We’d tell you, but it would be claimed as fake news.) Blenheim Vineyards is owned by Dave Matthews — yep, that one. He can do more than sing! The wines were yummy . We especially liked the whites, and he does the artwork for the labels for two of his wines each year.
Entering the tasting roomOne of the outside seating areas at the winery
One of our first days out in Charlottesville was spent walking the campus of the University of Virginia. The university, opened in 1825, was built according to Jefferson’s vision of an “academical village.” One of its unique characteristics is that it was built to include separate rooms for students rather than dorms. Also, there were pavilions for faculty which included both classrooms and living quarters. The university is still seen as one of Jefferson’s greatest architectural achievements. It currently has about 21,000 students and 2,200 faculty.
The official mascot for the university is the Cavaliers; however, their unofficial nickname (though you see it all over, including on t-shirts and signs at the football stadium) is Wahoos, or Hoos for short based on one of their cheers.
The Rotunda — the focal point of the original “academical village” and the building at the north end of the university’s LawnThe Rotunda from the Lawn — each side of the Lawn is flanked by the faculty pavilions and student rooms from Jefferson’s original plansOld Cabell Hall on the southern end of the Lawn — it includes an auditorium with exceptional acoustics and is used for concerts, lectures, and public eventsOne of the student rooms flanking the Lawn — apparently these are still popular with students even though they do not include lavatoriesOne of many colonnades on campusA plaque for one of UVA’s most distinguished alumniJefferson’s statue along the LawnEdgar Allen Poe’s room from the 1 term that he attended — it is in the Range, another row is student rooms that run parallel to the LawnThe inside of Poe’s room University ChapelHarrison Institute and Special Collections Library (on right) — had a great exhibit on the Declaration of Independence as well as Thomas Chatterton, an English poet who tried to pass off his work as being from the 15th centuryThe main entrance to the football stadium — note the Go Hoos signThe inside of the stadium — no bad seats and it has a capacity of about 60,000University and confederate cemetary on campus — an African American burial grounds lies outside of the cemetary walls without any grave markersTree-lined walkway on campus near the tennis courtsPart of The Dell, an 11 acre landscape reclamation on campus that resurrected a buried stream, creates a storm water management system, an establishes a habitat for wildlifeAn arch from the original gardens that made up part of the land for The Dell
Bob and I are currently almost a week into our Charlottesville (locally C’ville), Virginia, house sit. It is a beautiful area — lots of trees, very clean, and surrounded by former presidential estates, and lots of orchards, wineries, breweries, cideries, and distilleries. The city itself has a population of about 50,000. It is the county seat of Abermarle County and is home to the University of Virginia.
(Side Note: In local news, the city has recently changed the name of one of its downtown areas from Lee Square to Emancipation Square. In addition, they have decided to remove their large statue of Robert E. Lee and this has sparked some contentious demonstrations from the KKK and the alt-right movements. We missed the one in July and will miss an upcoming one in August, for which we are grateful.)
On a happier note, we met our homeowner family — mom, dad, and two precocious little girls on the eve of their departure for a Mexican vacation, part of which will include swimming with sharks. We are caring for their 2 dogs and 6 indoor/outdoor cats (to the extent they want to be cared for) while the family is gone.
The two dogs are quite easy — a couple of walks, some food, and equal amounts of attention, and they are good. Both feel free to let you know if they feel you are not paying attention.
Roger (for Roger Federer) is a golden labradoodle. He has the most human- looking eyes — like he can tell what you are thinking/feeling.Velvet is a 9-year old mix. She is the alpha dog of the two.
The cats are all mixed-breed rescues. They come and go at their leisure with one pretty much living next door. Some tend to be more inside and others happier outside. Five are male and one is female.
Anderson (for Anderson Cooper) is 7 years old. He likes to strut around a bit outside but is also inside often as well for strokes and to have us turn on the faucet for him to drink out of. He and Leona are our most frequent feline companions.Leona is 6 years old. She is a cat that knows what she likes — your coffee or food, drinking out of the faucet, and treats from the cupboard. She is a regular purr machine and is mostly inside where she can be attended to.Sanjay (for Sanjay Gupta) is 7 years old. He is definitely an outdoor cat. While we see him inside to feed, we most often see him outside where he accompanies us on our walks with the dogs. He sometimes gets swooped at by birds, but it doesn’t seem to bother him.Derek (for Derek Hough — from Dancing with the Stars), is 1 years old. He was adopted last year with Rafa. He is about equally in and outside, though we rarely see him inside as he likes to stay under furniture.Rafa (for Rafael Nadal) is 1 years old. He is mostly outside.
There is also a cat named Miles that we caught a fleeting glimpse of on our first night here with the homeowners. He was on his way back to the neighbors. Per the home owners, he has apparently decided there is too much activity in the house with the family so has adopted the neighbor but comes back every so often to eat.
Downtown Charlottesville is lovely and has lots of reminders of its connections to 3 former presidents — Jefferson, Monroe, and Madison — as well as reminders of its participation in the confederacy during the Civil War. It has a lovel pedestrian-only mall with unique, local shops and restaurants.
One corner of the city hall building at the edge of the pedestrian mallLooking down the mall towards Charlotteville’s Paramount TheaterSome restaurants and cafes along the mallOne of the statues on the grounds of the McGuffey Art Center downtownThe imposing RE Lee statue set for removalHistoric Court Square
Last Thursday, Bob and I left Lansing via American Airlines on what was to be a three-legged journey to Charlottesville, VA where we would pick up a rental car and drive for 3 hours to North Carolina to visit our 46th state. Not an ideal itinerary but it got us the cheapest airfare. Our estimated 2:00 arrival was pushed back about 4 1/2 hours when we had to add a 4th leg to the air journey when our flight from Charlotte, NC to Charlottesville, VA was cancelled due to an “operational decision” (pilot had a liquid lunch, perhaps?). We got a free trip to LaGuardia and then onto Charlottesville. We made a very quick transfer in LaGuardia, but Bob’s bag didn’t come with us. It had to happen sometime, right? Long story short, we arrived into Charlottesville at 6:30 pm to learn Bob’s bag was on a delayed flight for which they couldn’t give us an ETA. We went onto Hillsborough, NC without the bag, as they promised to hold it for us until we returned the rental car on Saturday. We had a lovely time in Hillsborough without it. (Bob is a much better trooper than I would have been!)
Since we really just had Friday and the Saturday morning, we tried to see as much of the little town as we could.
We began the day by walking to, and then through, the Occoneechee Mountain State Natural Area. It was free to enter and had a number of nice walking trails, including one to the summit (only 350 feet) which is the highest point in Orange County where Hillsborough is located.
Entering the Occoneechee State Natural AreaOverlooking the Eno River and surrounding area on our way up to the summitA closer view of the Eno River along the trailLooking down the mountainA view of the mountain and surrounding area from the Overlook (no views from the summit — just trees and cell towers)A tree view from the overlook
When we were done at the Occoneechee Mountain State Natural Area we walked the relatively new River Trail into downtown.
Following the signsA bridge along the trailCrossing under a railroadCrossing the Eno RiverA stick work sculpture by Patrick DoughertyA view of the trail from aboveHillsborough Town HallCounty courthouseCute bar on edge of downtown — you can get a “Cat on a Tin Roof” martini with pineapple-infused vodka or a “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof” martini with pineapple and jalapeño infused vodka
After we walked back to our motel, we drove to the Eno River State Park to check out some of the trails there.
Starting our hikeA wobbly suspension bridge over the Eno RiverAnother view of the bridge — a posted sign noted how the river had risen to bridge level during a hurricane in 1996Franny’s Ford — a popular swimming hole
On Saturday morning on our way out of Hillsborough, we stopped at their weekly farmer’s market. They were having a tomato fest. The market was small but cute — with lots of great produce.
The marketAs part of the festival, you could sample an array of tomatoes and vote on your favoriteSome colorful mushrooms that grow right from the bag
After having explored the MSU campus, we had to give some time to the U of M as well, especially since Ann Arbor is so close to Lansing (about a 70 minute drive from where we stayed west of downtown — closer from East Lansing where the MSU campus is). It is a much larger campus (more spread out) with a main and north campus area. It lies adjacent to the vibrant and cute downtown which was prepping for an art festival on the day we were there. Ann Arbor might be our favorite of the three cities based on our quick tour of each, but we were impressed with the cleanliness of each and the diversity and quality of local shops for cities with populations of about 100,000. Also, lots of green — trees everywhere.
We started on the main campus and picked up a campus map to guide our tour.
Looking across the quad (what they call the Diagonal)The free -to-enter art museumBurton Tower with art festival tents going up around itMichigan League, a multi-function facility including a hotel and theaterA statue honoring those that died during the Holocaust as well as those who risked their lives to help othersCute building in the medical center portion of campusMichigan football stadium — “The Big House” — official capacity of almost 108,000
We had a good (in the sense of long and hot) walk to the north campus to check out the Gerald R Ford library. On the way back we found a fun hiking/biking trail near the Huron River and also checked out some of the Nichols Arboretum on campus.
Fun Ford Fact: His birth name was Leslie Lynch King, Jr. His name was changed to his step-father’s name when his mother remarried.
The front of the Ford library which houses his archives and from which he use to work on occasion after leaving officeThe main floor of the library where we saw a great 15-20 minute film on the president.Let it be soCrossing the Huron River on a pedestrian-only bridge on the hike and bike pathKayakers on the Huron RiverLooking towards campus from the arboretumThe great lawn at the arboretumFlowers/plants at one entrance to the arboretumA couple of snaps from the downtown area —
A shopping arcade which reminded us of those we saw in the UKA pretty downtown theater and a banner about the art fair
On our second day (first full day) in Michigan, we drove to Grand Rapids to visit the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Museum. (Side note: This is the only presidential museum which does not also house his archives. Those are on the U of M campus at Ann Arbor where he went to college. The museum is really well done and provides a good background on the times when he governed as well as how he ascended to the Vice Presidency (appointed by President Nixon, confirmed by Congress, when Spiro Agnew resigned) and the Presidency (assumed office when Nixon resigned). Bob and I both left with the sense that while we may have disagreed with his view on some things he seemed like he was a man with a lot of integrity who took charge when the country really needed some honest guidance. Of course, Betty is discussed as well and was (and continues to be) a role model in her own right.
We didn’t see much else in Grand Rapids, but what we did looked really nice. We learned that the area has benefited from the success of the Amway company (DeVos family) of which Betsy DeVos, current Education secretary is a member. There is a DeVos Learning Center within the Ford Museum and an Amway Grand Hotel downtown.
Bob and I have now seen the presidential museums of Clinton, Bush (first), Reagan, Ford, Nixon, Johnson, and Kennedy. Many more to go.
The front exterior view of the museumThe side exterior view of the museumThe atriumA recreation of the Ford Oval OfficeThis seemed timely. . .
Ford was the first (and only one so far) person to become Vice President in accordance with the 25th amendment established after Kennedy’s assassinationA quote from Ford as he assumed the presidencyThe graves of President and Mrs. Ford on the grounds of the museum The portion of the Grand River that flows through Grand RapidsAnother view of downtown Grand Rapids near the museum
In between our Arizona and Virginia house sits, we decided to hit a couple of states that we haven’t yet visited as we’re a few states short of 50. The first state we chose to visit was Michigan. Based on some research and some input from one of my cousins (thanks Lyndsey!), we decided to base ourselves in Lansing but do a couple of day trips to Grand Rapids and Ann Arbor. The three cities are pretty similar in size and relatively close together with Lansing being in the middle, so it worked well. We have enjoyed our time here and are impressed with the greenness of this area (so many trees!) as well as the cleanliness of the cities.
Lansing is the capital of Michigan. It has a population of about 115,000 which makes it the fifth largest city in MI. Directly east of Lansing is the city of East Lansing, home of Michigan State University. We spent our first afternoon in MI exploring the campus. We were surprised to learn of its dairy program as well as its strength in botany and horticulture. FYI — Botany is regarded as a broader pure science in regards to living plant organisms. Horticulture is an applied science focused solely on edible and ornamental plant life.
Eli and Edythe Broad Art MuseumMSU StadiumMSU Football Hall of FameMSU botanical gardenMSU Botanical gardenMSU Student UnionMSU Horticultural GardenMSU Horticultural GardenA close-up at the Horticultural gardenAnother close-up but one that reminded us of Arizona
We also spent some time touring the Michigan Capitol and the Michigan Hall of Justice, which houses the state Supreme Court. Michigan was admitted to the Union in 1837 as the 26th state with Detroit as its capital. The capital (seat of government) was moved to Lansing in 1847. The current building is the second building in Lansing to serve as the Capitol (building) and was completed in 1879. The Hall of Justice is a gorgeous new building, completed in 2002, as the headquarters of the state’s judicial branch of government. It houses a great learning center focused on teaching students about the judiciary and has some great views of the mall.
The outside of the Michigan CapitolThe senate chambers as seen from the from the public viewing areaThe house chambers as seen from the public viewing areaA view of the Michgan Hall of Justice across the mall from the rear of the CapitolA seal in the floor of the Michigan Hall of JusticeLooking across the mall back towards the Capitol from the 6th floor of the Hall of Justice
Finally, we had a nice walkabout along the lovely River Trail which runs along the Grand River.
Partial view of River Trail from bridgeView of housing and the River Market building along the trailPedestrian bridge across the Grand River