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Art and Books (5/26/22)

Today was a little cultural tour for us. Bob had read good things about the Detroit Institute for Art (DIA), so we knew we wanted to get there while we were visiting . Luckily, we checked their website last night, as they require reservations for entry, and we booked a slot for 10 am. It was about a 40 minute walk to get there.

Our initial impression of the museum was not good. A gentleman sitting right inside the door asked Bob for the electronic tickets, scanned them, and then went and sat down. Bob picked up a map for the building, and we tried to make our way forward. We had a number of stops and starts trying to figure out where to go, and it seemed for awhile that we were either being told we couldn’t enter that area or the room/exhibit was marked as closed. I was starting to wonder what we had paid to see, but we persevered (helped when we finally figured out what floor we were on), and we ended up very impressed.

The Detroit Institute of Art

I always enjoy an art museum where the building is as attractive as the art, and this was. The DIA also has an impressive range in their collection— everything from Asian, Southeast Asian, and African art, to American, European, ancient artifacts, old books, and decorative arts. They were also having a special exhibition on Detroit Automotive Style from the 1950s to today. The following are some of the highlights for us, and we would definitely recommend a visit.

The attractive courtyard cafe
One of the hallways in the Egyptian section
This is a Malawian Elvis mask made by the Chewa people of Malawi as a tool to warn young people about undesirable Western values.
A few of the cars from the auto exhibit.

One of the highlights of the visit was speaking with a docent about the Diego Rivera murals that adorn all four sides of a large hall (Rivera Court) within the institute. She provided us with some of the background for the painting, including how Rivera’s workers would transfer the sketches onto the wall and apply the wet mix that was needed for Rivera to paint on.

One part of the Diego Rivera mural commissioned by Edsel Ford.
Another large section of the mural. The two men in the lower right hand corner of the mural are Edsel Ford and the Director of the Institute at the time the mural was created.

After our 2.5 hours or so at the DIA, we walked directly across the street to the Detroit Public Library. I love libraries, and they can sometimes be architecturally interesting as well. This one seemed promising.

The side of the library facing Woodward Street and the DIA.
The entrance to the library.
We even found a big head/bust for Bob. Meet Nicklaus Copernicus.

The inside of the library was beyond disappointing. Only the first floor has reopened due to COVID. It is dark, low-ceilinged, and generally uninspiring. Worse, it was not air conditioned and quite warm. I felt sorry for the staff. Bob spoke with one employee who said that the second floor is beautiful, so I guess if we get back to Detroit we may have to return to check that out.

Tomorrow we head to Holland, Michigan for a brief visit before taking the ferry to Wisconsin.

Bob, here! The Diego Rivera Court was very impressive—my favorite at the art institute. It made me think of his work at Rockefeller Center in NYC. For the rest of 2022, we have scheduled (which will change) 10 sits in California, Scotland, Kansas City, Austin (multiple), Denver, Chicago, and England.

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Quiet Day in Detroit (5/25/21)

Bob and I had a quiet but somewhat productive day in Detroit. I did not sleep very well but managed to complete three blog posts before we headed off for a short walkabout. Bob enjoyed the hotel breakfast, and I hope to do so tomorrow.

For our walkabout, we headed back towards the water to a state park that we had seen yesterday that runs right along the water. We thought we’d decide then whether we would try to walk across a bridge to Belle Isle, which sits in the middle of the Detroit River.

Entrance to the park
Photo from the park looking across to Canada
Looking across a small marina towards a lighthouse
Looking across the park back towards downtown and the GM Headquarters (set of tall buildings)

At the end of the state park, we walked into the Aretha Franklin Amphitheater, as the gates were open and there was no signage about not entering. We naively thought that it was part of the park. It was not, Mr. Security Man did his job and walked the riff raff out of the park.

The signage for the Aretha Franklin Amphitheater.

I was feeling low energy with my lack of sleep, so we headed back towards the hotel. On the way, we poked through a couple of markets to see if we wanted to pick anything up for dinner. We did at the second one, which was a decent-sized store but with a series of very small snakelike aisles so that we were always stumbling on new sections of the store and impressed with the selection but also anxious to be out due to its coziness. We’ve been taking advantage of the fact that we have a full kitchen — microwave, stovetop, full fridge, pots and pans, and dishes in our room.

During the afternoon we just napped for a bit and then hit the great fitness center while it rained outside. More rain expected tomorrow.

Bob writing here: I may provide some numbers occasionally as I have better numeric skills than writing skills. Today is the 145th day of the year. Of those 145, we have stayed with family eight nights, in hotels 31 nights (19 different cities), and house sitting 105 nights. But Bob, that adds up to only 144! Yes, the remaining night was on the plane from JFK to Paris. Our latest sit in St. Catherines, Ontario was our 104th career sit which have been in 14 countries. By the end of 2022, we’re currently scheduled to complete our 114th house sit.

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Nice Northern Neighbors

We have had some great house sits since May 2021 when we returned to house sitting full-time again. House sits #85-103 — for old friends in Austin, Texas, and new friends in Dripping Springs, Texas, Cape Coral, Florida, Martinsville, Virginia, Boiling Springs, South Carolina, Atlanta, Georgia, Aurora, Illinois, Plymouth, Michigan, Washington, DC, Eymet, France, and Verteuil-sur-Charente, France. So many great experiences and people and pets. And we also got to fit in visits with relatives in Iowa, Wisconsin, Georgia, DC, and New York as well. We are blessed.

Since we just wrapped up a house sit in St. Catherines, Ontario, and were inspired to start blogging again by their travel blog, we wanted to at least do a quick post house sit post on House Sit #124 — six weeks in a lovely home and area caring for an amazing dog, Jack. Jack loves walking, eating, being petted, going for drives, and being near his people. We were very happy being his people for six weeks.

Jack giving us the “I could be fed now” look.
Jack entertaining himself.
Walking Jack at one of the many parks in St. Catherines.

Jack’s real people are Rick and Shona. We had a great transition with them prior to their departure and after their return. They are generous hosts and interesting people who have a similar love for travel. On top of that, Rick is a former Olympian AND attended the school that was the film location for the school scenes in “A Christmas Story.” Mic drop. We certainly hope our paths cross again.

We love every place we have visited in Canada, but the St. Catherines/Niagara region is unique for the abundance of wineries, orchards, and flower farms and greenhouses. We were there to see the trees bloom, and it was quite lovely. The other thing in abundance are locations for walking, hiking, and biking — from waterfront trails to canal paths to local paths in parks to the Bruce Trail, a 550 mile plus long trail through Southern Ontario. It was a lovely interlude.

An urban beach along the Waterfront Trail on Lake Ontario.
Bob didn’t find a big head sculpture, but he did discover that there was a Big Head Winery, so we headed there for a photo. Didn’t try the wine.
A view of Fort Niagara in the US from the Niagara-on-the-Lake golf course patio.

There is so much more I could say, but since I’m playing catch-up, we’ll just have to return to make more memories, eh.

,

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Destination Detroit

After farewelling Rick, Shona, and Jack, we headed off via car for a reverse Underground Railroad journey from Canada to what has become shoot-em-up USA. Note: though obviously our journey was very different, both St. Catherines and Detroit played a role in the Underground Railroad journey (see prior blog and below).

On our way south, we passed a sign for Brantford, Ontario, which calls itself the “Telephone City” and has an Alexander Graham Bell Way. Wait, what? That created a discussion with Bob about what we knew about Mr. Bell and the phone, as we both thought this was an American thing. A quick Google search later that day would show that Mr. Bell was born in Scotland, emigrated to Canada with his family, hatched the idea for the phone in Brantford, and honed it in Boston. So I guess three countries can claim him.

We had a very strange feeling return to the US. Unlike in New York and Niagara, Canada, where there are numerous signs for the bridge crossings. I don’t believe we saw any overt signage that the tunnel we crossed was a border crossing— just the name of the tunnel. We paid $5 US to drive through the subtle tunnel and then had a quick chat with a nice border patrol guy who glanced at our passports and we were in downtown Detroit. It all felt a bit surreptitious.

We are staying in the Elemental Hotel in downtown Detroit on John R Street. I have not yet asked or digitally searched for who John R might be and why just the initial. We quickly checked into our room and headed out for a walkabout on a beautiful, sunny day. Bob had read about their Riverwalk, so we headed in that direction.

We found some interesting buildings downtown.

This hotel was named for the now defunct Shinola shoe polish (made in Chicago if my internet source is right) that is the reference in the saying “You don’t know shit from Shinola.”
The building where Detroit will be holding the NFL draft — in 2024!
A sign counting down the days, hours, minutes, etc, until the 2024 NFL draft.

The riverwalk was very lovely and reminded us that Detroit is more than sports and cars, though we would get back into sports later.

Looking across the Detroit River to Windsor, Ontario.
A statue in tribute to the Underground Railroad. Detroit was a destination for awhile until Canada became a safer option after they abolished slavery in 1834.

After a lovely stroll along the water, we walked back into town, passing 3 of Detroit’s sports fields/arenas.

Ford Field, home of the Detroit Lions football team, with a Shinola clock. So as a Green Bay Packer fan, I’d be tempted to say this is an example of shit and Shinola, but that wouldn’t be nice.
One view of Comerica Bank Field, home of the Detroit Tigers baseball team, which is at or near the bottom of their division right now.
This is actually a restaurant I believe near the Little Caesar’s arena that hosts the Detroit Pistons basketball and the Detroit Red Wings hockey teams. Pizza, pizza!

We found a Whole Foods store to pick up dinner and came back to the news of the horrible mass shooting in Uvalde, Texas. An 18 year old from the community killed 14 elementary students and 1 teacher. Sadly, America will again let this go unanswered.

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Return to Blogging 2022

Bob and I are returning to blogging about our travels after some time away. We returned to house sitting in May of 2021 following the death of my sister from cancer and the easing of COVID restrictions.

The primary purpose of our blogs is to create a repository of memories, so we can recall our experiences at a future point in time, when our recall won’t be the sharpest!! So, if you’d like to follow along, please do so. We’d love to have you.

But before we start that, I want to just share a bit about my only sibling and Bob’s sister-in-law.

Brenda Kay Quade (1967-2021) was an intense, dedicated lawyer, a generous friend, a lover of family, and a self-described nester. She was a devoted mother to Sammy, her Jack Russell, for 18 years. She had a wicked sense of humor and loved to shock people with that humor or a quick change of hair color. She came to live out loud, and she did. She knew exactly who she was when she arrived and blazed the trail she was meant to take.

I miss her every day. Little things like her texting me a funny meme daily or her funny quips and her strength. She battled cancer courageously for 18 months. She ultimately taught how to both live and how to let go of the world when it’s time.

I have gone through everything from survivor’s guilt to questioning the meaning of everything, but have finally settled on that it would dishonor her to not live my life fully. So Bob and are are living out loud in our own way, not through personality so much (well, with Bob, personality too) but in doing out-of-the-ordinary things that fit us.

My sister, Brenda, on our last trip together — to Las Vegas, 3 months before her cancer diagnosis.

I would always say “I love you” to Brenda, and she would respond “I love you more.” Say things you want to say now to those that mean the most. That should be one way we all live out loud.

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In the Market for Views

Yesterday, Saturday, was the first day that we hadn’t planned an outing the night before. After perusing all of the tourist literature we have accumulated, we decided to head out on Incheon Line 1 to the Dongchun-dong area for a quick peak in the Square One mall (I’m attempting to Christmas shop.) before walking about an hour to the Mt. Cheong-nyang mountain with it’s temple, observation platform, and Incheon Landing Operation Memorial Hall. Then we’d head into Ongnyeon-dong to visit their traditional market before catching the metro back at the Song-Do Station market in Ongnyeon-dong.

It ended up being a great outing even though the weather surprised us and what was to be a relatively mild 44 degree F winter day turned to snow and we ended up a bit wet and chilled by the time we returned.

Our first glimpse of the Heungryungsa Temple. It is actually more of a complex with smaller temples beyond the larger temple. This one was hosting some youth event with lots of music, so we just peeked inside.
More of the grounds. The 10 Thou Shalt Nots? A list of ways to focus on your breathing?
The Buddhist gift shop
Beautiful lanterns with wishes inside
A big bell and gong
The inside of one of the smaller temples
The outside of one of the smaller temples
A happy buddha

Immediately behind the temple grounds was a walking path up to an observation platform. Before heading up, we had looked down into one of the parking lots and saw an ambulance with 1-1-9 on the side. We figured somebody in one of the temples was having a medical issue. We continued on.

The start of the walk up from behind the temple grounds
More of the climb up. It was on the last set of these stairs that we saw a group of what seemed to be 20 rescue workers carrying a young man (20ish) down on a stretcher. We pulled over to the side as they went by. Not sure what happened. The man was awake though he even with the blanket he seemed cold. It is all stairs until the top. As you start back, there is some earthen path so not sure if he twisted an ankle or went out too far for a photo or what. But, 1-1-9 to the rescue!
One of the views from the top on a wintry day.
Another view, the bridge you see there is the Incheon Bridge which goes to the airport. This concrete bridge opened in 2009 and is South Korea’s longest-spanning cable-stayed bridge. It’s a little over 13 miles long.

I continue to be amazed by how little I know about history, and I even find it interesting. At some point, I learned about the Korean War, I think. Anyway, whatever facts went in have fallen behind other information that I either use more frequently or found more interesting. So, our whole trip to the Incheon Operation Landing Memorial was fairly informative even with the always interesting English translations.

It was a key battle in the Korean War that led to the recapture of Seoul which apparently fell to the North Koreans a number of times during the war. The Battle of Incheon was led by General MacArthur on behalf of the United Nations troops. It was code named Operation Chromite and took place in September of 1950. 1,350 were killed including 224 Americans (out of a total of 36,000+ Americans killed during the war).

The Memorial displayed a number of military vehicles used during the war. See above and below.
A reenactment of the UN forces coming ashore for the battle
The main memorial and column. In the middle level (up the first set of stairs) is an exhibition hall that provides more information on the battle.
The initial entrance to the Memorial from the main street. We entered from a different side.

From the Memorial we walked to Ongnyeon-dong to try to find the traditional market.

An fire rescue building and the ever present Incheon seals.
We found the market — all kinds of fish and seaweed
Well, these aren’t pretty, but we tried one anyway. We each got one of the green ones which were basically cabbage mixed into a kind of crepe and then grilled and served rolled up like a tortilla. It was very good. The red one is the same thing but with kimchi. They went for $1 a piece.
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Incheon — Hold the E

As Bob and I have traveled via metro/subway between Song-Do and Seoul, we have been listening to the pronunciation of the various stops. While I had noted that ‘s’ here is sometimes pronounced as ‘s’ like Song-Do, it is also sometimes pronounced as ‘sh.” Bob, on the other hand, noted that our region, Incheon, is pronounced “inch-on” and not “inch-ee-on” as we had been pronouncing it. So, there you have it. A linguistic lesson to introduce our long walk to see a bit more of Incheon proper.

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Song, Song-Do

A little more about the area in which we are staying, Song-Do or Songdo, we’ve seen it both ways. It is an International Business District, a smart city built from scratch on about 1,500 acres of reclaimed land along Incheon’s waterfront. Song-Do is 19 miles southwest of Seoul and along with Yeongjong and Cheongna it is part of the Incheon Free Economic Zone (IFEZ). I had noted some areas of interest while running, so on Friday we ventured out to explore some of the area more thoroughly. A bit of Song-Do. . .

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The Olympic Art of Recycling

The 1988 Summer Olympics were held in Seoul. It followed two Olympics marred by boycotts (Los Angeles and Sarajevo) and nearly 8,500 athletes from 159 countries participated. It saw the return of tennis to the Olympics and the addition of table tennis and archery. Big winners included Ben Johnson (later DQd for drug use), Sergey Bubka (what a fun name!), Flo Jo, and Jackie Joyner-Kersee.

Seoul has transformed the Olympic Space into a beautiful, art-filled park.

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Climbing the Wall

On Monday we ventured back into Seoul to do a walking tour along the old city wall that we had found in the information center near Central Park. This was an uneventful trip 1.45 hour trip in by train with 1 train change.