So many of you may not get the reference in the title, but stay tuned to the end and I’ll attempt to explain my aged and arcane reference. In the meantime, the following are some photos of our sunny afternoon excursion to Devonport, New Zealand.
Devonport is a cute bayside village directly across the Hauraki Gulf from Auckland. We took a short, 10 minute ferry ride to get there. With both trains and ferry, we use a transportation card provided by the home owner which provides a discounted fare over buying a straight ticket and it keeps you from having to stop and buy a ticket before boarding each time. This was super nice of her, and we plan to leave her with the cards at the amount they had on them when we leave.
Looking back at the ferry building as we queued to boardPhoto of Hilton thru ferry window as we departed Auckland HarborBob got a great shot of Auckland skyline from the outside upper deck of the ferry.We’re a bit fascinated with the equipment used at the port to help load and unload ships.Seems like we should have swum acrossYep, it was time for a coastal walk in Devonport.There has been a hotel on this site since 1860. It is currently the Esplanade Hotel.Winter in New Zealand. Though Bob and I started off with coats and had long pants and sleeves.Lovely homes along the esplanade as we made our way to the North Head.Monument to commemorate the arrival of the Maoris to the shore circa 1350.The North Head
The tourist map of Devonport that we were following indicated that there was a park area on North Head, so we were heading to the top of the hill to see what was there.
An eye-catching bush in the lawn of a home as we made our way to North Head.Heading up the hillLooking over to Mt. Victoria in Devonport as we ascended North HeadLoved the view of Auckland from near the top!Another view of residences and Mt VictoriaOnce more, with zoomingThis is a very colorful restroom on the way up the hill.The hill had been used for military purposes so not sure if these were prisons or hide-outs.Battery observation postFire powerLooking away from Devonport to Rangitoto IslandNaval Museum on North Head
From North Head, we walked back to the little town center to check out the popular Victoria Street with one of the most intact collections of Victorian and Edwardian commercial buildings in Auckland as well as a very cool, and well-used Library.
View from the top (away from water) of Victoria RoadCheck out (pun intended) this library!Devonport War Memorial erected in 1923The Arcade, built between 1880 and 1890Inside the central arcade of the ArcadeFormer Post Office, now a multi-purpose mallAnother cute building just off of Victoria RoadVictoria Picture Palace, oldest purpose-built cinema still standing in Southern Hemisphere
We noted a few other, random sights as we strolled around Devonport.
Banana tree?Cute storefront statue that has not been left out in the cold (also near yarn shop)How random — guess George was quicker than the bear!
So, growing up (in Wisconsin), our living room had a davenport (sofa). I’m not sure as an adult I have ever heard that term used for a sofa, but I was reminded of the term when I heard about Devonport. Googling the term Davenport to see if I was misremembering, I found that this was the name of a series of sofas by A. H. Davenport and Company. Due to the popularity of the furniture, the name davenport began to be used generically for sofas much like Kleenex for tissue. So there, if you have any complaints about the dated, obscure reference, you can “sit on it.”
Like many of the places we’ve visited in New Zealand, Auckland has a number of lovely parks and reserves that make you feel like you are out of the big city. Bob figured out a nice walk for us on Tuesday that took us through a number of parks, reserves, and shared use paths not too far from our neighborhood.
We began with a walk to and around the cute little lake in Western Springs Park about 15 minutes from our house. It is located next to the Auckland Zoo and Museum of Transportation and Technology both of which are quite popular now with families whose kids are out on break for the winter holiday. We stuck to the park and enjoyed the beautiful surroundings and animals (though not so much the goose poop).
Ebony and a quick glimpse of ivory — swimming in apparent harmonySide view of lakeLarger view of the lakeMore geeseChickens — can you see them?PūkekoOh no, I feel eel!Lovely!Sculpture near the lake
Next to the Western Springs Park we stumbled on the Fukuoka Garden which was created to honor Auckland’s sister city relationship with Fukuoka, Japan. It a free little tranquil garden between the park and the zoo.
Stone entrance to gardenThe Japanese garden
We then walked a bit further on into the Westmere neighborhood through two nature reserves, one of which brought us along the coast (an inlet of the Hauraki Gulf).
The first reserve was a relatively small bush reserve called Jaggers Bush Reserve, so I thought we should move like Jagger but there were other people about so we just hummed the song while we walked.
Bob doing his best Haka move — or just trying to get me to quit taking his photoPart of the path through the bushI just love all the different varieties of plants here.
The second reserve, the Meola Reef Reserve, was larger and was formed by the longest lava flow in the Auckland Volcanic field. It has both on and off leash areas for dogs.
Sign at entrance to reserve
The marshy area of the reserve as you enter from the street
Looking out to the gulfLooking across the narrow inlet to the homes along the water
After that we started heading back towards Mount Albert via the Point Chevalier neighborhood. We stopped for a picnic lunch on the grounds of the massive (at least land-wise) Unitec Institute of Technology and then continued on to do a grocery run via a shared use path and then onto Oakley Creek Walkway which had us back to nature again before getting to the store.
The main building on the Unitec campusA rainbow path!Oakley Creek WalkwayLooking up at the street-level bridge from the walkwayOne more birthday toast after another great day!
On Monday, I turned 54, sigh. Amazing how fast time goes. When I was younger, I’d be really old by now, but now old just keeps getting older — knock on wood. Anyhoo, while I like my leisurely mornings with a newspaper (after a run), I also like getting out and seeing things and am just cheap enough to prefer walking if at all possible. I picked a long walkabout for my birthday that may have pushed the limits if you’re also wanting to enjoy your day as well. We covered at least 13 miles through sun, rain, and wind before the day was done. (It should be noted that no rain was forecast for the day.). Bob was kind enough to indulge me and saved the day by ensuring we had rain gear before heading out.
We headed off towards Bastion Point, one of the few stops on the Auckland sight-seeing routes that we had not yet seen. Per Google Maps, this was a 7.5 mile jaunt from our house that would take almost 3 hours. It started out lovely but got a bit more challenging near the coast when the wind and rain kicked in.
Heading off on one of Auckland’s great shared use paths.Even better when the sun is shining!Luckily, we came upon this before we were feeling like we could join them.Public art near the cemeteryWe are always thankful for public restrooms on our long walks!Truth in advertising, this houses the NZ Assoc of Rationalists and HumanistsWe just liked the look of this building.A mix of old and new which we saw quite a bit ofFun public art near a bus stopLooking across to downtownWe walked by much of the downtown campus of the University of Auckland.Don’t know where the new hall is, if there is one, but this is cute.Why not brag a little?
The next part of the walk took us out of downtown and then along the coast past the working port and the aquarium before reaching Bastion Point.
We’re sure this building is structurally sound, but it doesn’t inspire confidence.Looking back towards the city as we cross the tracks toward the strand.Lovely walkway along the coastLooking across the road to the inner harbor where some boats were docked.Walking past a lovely community before a cloudburstThe point (Bastion that is) for the walk! Sort of — see below.Bastion Point is the geographical headland, the monument is a memorial.The lovely obelisk memorial (for NZ’s 1st Labour PM), pool, and gardens.
Selfie
From Bastion Point, we walked 4.5 miles back along the coast into the City Center to head to a department store which was hosting The World Press Photo Exhibition 2019.
Working port
Lots of stuff ready to go somewhere
The World Press Exhibition is a traveling show based on an annual contest. It’s the world’s leading contest for professional press photographers. The 2019 contest drew entries from 4,738 photographers from 129 countries. Subjects ranged from war, social issues, political governance, sports, and animals.
Fashion models on a street in Dakar for Fashion Africa TV by a UK photographer.
Left, photo showing a young woman dressing as a man to be able to attend a football game.
Right, women allowed in on one day to assuage the FIFA President. Both by a photographer from Iran.
Sadly, this a child sleeping on a mattress floating on plastic in a river in the PhilippinesA look at the display of the photos
After the photo show, we stopped to pick up a suitcase that Bob had purchased on Saturday to replace the one he’s had forever but has finally worn out. Then we took the train home for a cocktail out and a nice dinner at home.
On Sunday, we headed to one of the two local markets that we had read about. This one was the La Cigale Market in the Parnell neighborhood of Auckland which is almost directly east of the city center whereas Mount Albert, our neighborhood, is 25 minutes (by train) southwest of the city center. We enjoyed walking through (and sampling from) the small market and then getting acquainted with the Parnell neighborhoods or at least the main thoroughfare. We found it very attractive and have learned from online sources (thank u Wikipedia) that it is one of the top three wealthiest suburbs in New Zealand.
We took the train there and then walked back.
The Baldwin Avenue train station about a block from where we are staying.A couple of vendors at the market
The market was small but diverse — produce, flowers, local food products, and ready-to-eat foods.Inside the La Cigale store — awesome assortment of food, home goods, and clothingOne of the many cute restaurants on Parnell Road.More cute shopsLoved the architecture and the cleanliness of the areaA lovely (but oddly named) bake shop, Winona Forever, we felt compelled to purchase.Cute building, regal nameLiked this restaurant for the name and the longhorn symbolJust when we thought it couldn’t get cuter
In addition to the retail along Parnell Road there were also some older homes with historical markers as well the Trinity Church that is a stop on the Auckland sight-seeing bus.
This was Hulme Court which briefly served as the Government House in the 1850s.Holy Trinity Cathedral the mother Anglican Church of the Auckland Diocese.
We began our walk back to Mount Albert walking into the Auckland Domain and picnicking in front of the Auckland Museum which we visited on our last stay in Auckland. It was a beautiful day and a lot of people were out enjoying the weather.
Auckland MuseumIt’s Sunday and the Kiwis have adopted the UK’s predilection of roasts on SundayMount Eden Stadium, the big rugby stadium in Auckland.Finally, flora.
So it is winter here. Not a US Midwestern winter or Northeast winter, but winter nonetheless. We wake up to temps in the high 30s or low 40s (Fahrenheit) before it warms up to the mid or upper 50s during the day. As it is winter, there have been a number of activities offered as part of their Winter Festival. We decided to take advantage of a couple of free events on Saturday.
We walked from “our” house to downtown which was approximately 75 minutes. We took the train back at the end of the day (about 25 minutes).
Walking through Arch Hill on the way into downtownOur path up the hillLooking down at the parkCrossing a big street into downtown and being impressed with the wide (red) pedestrian bridgeLooking at Sky Tower coming into downtown
A couple of the activities offered through July are snow or ice-based. There is a square that has been transformed into a skating rink and a snow globe for a free photo op. I thought the snow globe sounded cool and thought we should check it out. It was definitely cool (no pun intended), but we observed it from outside as it was smaller than I had imagined and we don’t really need a photo of ourselves. It was interesting watching the staff shovel the man-made snow that accumulated inside the globe. We also liked the ice princesses that were posing for photos near the globe.
Sky City and Sky Tower, snow globe was located at base of towerSnow globe before they started making snowOne family enjoying the flurriesA couple of ice princesses keeping the winter theme going
After people watching for a bit, we decided to head to the harbor area for our picnic lunch.
The ferry building with a docked cruise shipFerry terminal alongside the cruise shipLooking back at the city from one of the piers
We had free tickets to another festival event (see below) at 4:00 pm. Until then, we decided to do one of the central district Auckland walks that we had picked up at the I-site (visitor’s center) in the Sky City building. It took us to various public art pieces along Queen Street, the major shopping street in the city center.
Kaitiaki II, 2009, recalling the waves that would have once reached the former shoreTe Waka Taumoto o Horotiu, 2008, waka is Maori for canoeTe Waharoa o Aotea, this acts as a gateway to Aotea Square, providing a cultural welcomeUntitled, 1990
A little before 4:00 we headed to the Auckland Town Hall for Te Hono: The Gathering. We weren’t quite sure what to expect except that it was suppose to be a multi-media event. It was held in one of the town hall chambers with big bean bag type chairs up front and folding chairs behind and on the sides. There were a couple of musicians on stage who performed sound effects for the show. Scenes were projected onto the walls and ceiling while three Maori men told different stories. The performance lasted an hour.
The staircase inside the Town HallThe initial scene for the performance depicting a Maori meeting hutThe musicians and different projection during one of the narratives
While Bob and I are in Auckland, Auckland is a large city of approximately 1.7 million, so to be more specific we are staying in the Mount Albert neighborhood of Auckland. It is a lovely residential area with lots of schools. While we have had really only two days of exploring, we have had a number of coincidences in meeting people or places that remind of us of home or places we’ve just visited.
First coincidence — about the only thing we left the house for on our first full day here was to go check out the local community center (YMCA) that our home owner had recommended and pick up some groceries. At the rec center the woman who met with us was born in China, raised in New Zealand, and studied at UW Green Bay! She took an immediate liking to us and introduced us to a young woman from California who has been in New Zealand for 5 years.
On Friday, the rain stopped, so we got out to do more exploring. We thought we should start in “our” hood, so we walked to a historical home called Alberton that we had read about. It was built by Allen Kerr Taylor, a Scotsman who had emigrated to New Zealand after marrying a woman in India who was of mixed ancestry. They weren’t accepted in either India or Scotland, so they came to New Zealand to start anew. The home was originally built as a farmhouse but was later expanded to an 18 room mansion as his wealth (and family) grew. It is now a museum but also serves as an event space for weddings, etc.
Current entrance to AlbertonSide view of houseUpstairs room for servantsDownstairs room for family
From the Alberton home, we summited Mount Albert which was just a couple of blocks from the home and used to be part of Mr. Taylor’s estate. It also used to be larger. The top half of the original mountain was removed for quarrying. The top now has large green spaces, a couple of soccer fields, and what seemed to be an empty pasture. It seemed to be a popular place to take dogs.
Looking past the Mount Albert neighborhood towards downtown— note the Sky TowerInteresting trees on the way upAnother view from the topThe Mount Albert Grammar School — complete with it’s own school farm!
Bob found us a great pathway for our walk about. A treeway actually. It was lovely and made you feel far removed from the city. Signage stated that is a recovering green corridor to protect two threatened ecosystems– lava flow forest and wetland. Yep, not in Texas anymore.
Bridge over a creek on the treewayMore of the path
The second coincidence on Friday was that we discovered the neighborhood next to ours is called Morningside which is also the name of the college where Bob and I got our undergraduate degrees. Bob was doing some research on a place to try for a drink and noted that there was a Morningside Tavern in that area (about a 25 minute walk from the house). We decided we had to try it just because of the name but then especially when the website showed that they made cocktails. However, it became mandatory that we go when the tavern website explained the origin of the name Morningside.
Third coincidence– Morningside is named after a nickname of Allen Kerr Taylor (he of the Alberton house fame, see above)! Allen’s older brothers also came to New Zealand but bought land in other parts of Auckland that they felt were far superior to the area where Allen was buying land. In fact they thought he was crazy to buy the then swampy land and called Allen “Morningside” after an Edinburgh suburb known for its lunatic asylum. After proving them wrong and succeeding in his businesses, he embraced the name and used it for this area of Auckland when he was dividing up his estate. (Note the coincidence here is that we had just been at this guy’s house to appreciate this story, not that our college was in any way similar to a lunatic asylum.)
The renowned Allen Taylor, or Morningside to his brothersThe attractive bar. It was hopping on a Friday late afternoon. We sat upstairs.Our well-made martinis.
On our second day in New Plymouth we got reacquainted with Pukekura Park, Marsden Hill, and a bit of the town center. Pukekura Park is 128 acres which is a combination of beautiful parkland, sports areas, museum, and concert area. There’s also a small zoo on the grounds. We started by walking towards Pukekura Park, but we stopped for a photo when Bob found a big head photo op along the way.
Cuz 2 big heads are better than one?The water wheelThe Japanese HillsideNew flora for the collectionThe Fountain Lake. Bob was bested by a child in getting to turn on the fountain.A look at the Tea House across the Main LakeBob beat the child in turning on the waterfall — the competition was only in Bob’s mindA large, cool-looking treePoet’s Bridge — named for a racehorse not a celebration of bardsKunming Garden near the GablesThe Gables — former hospital now used for art classes and displaysThe chimney saved from the farm in Taranaki where cheese was first madeOne of my favorite flowers yetThe bandshell — on water, very cool!Random photo — cute child’s toy left in restroom at parkOne of the most recognized birds in New Zealand, the pukeko, or purple swamp henArt in the water
More pretty plants
We discovered Marsden Hill on our first visit doing a walk of historic or important sites that we had picked up at the visitor’s center. It contains an observatory, war memorial, and carillon and provides a great view of New Plymouth.
The observatory, home of the New Plymouth Astrological SocietyThe war memorial and carillon
A view of New Plymouth from atop the hill
The town center is lovely, as it lies along the coast but also has a great art museum, public art, and a good selection of retail and dining options.
The Len Lye Art GalleryDowntown clock towerA whale being constructed of plastic bottles to call attention to all the plastic in the oceanMore public art in front of the visitors centerThe Wind Wand kinetic sculpture along the coastal walkway near the town centerAn unexplored bomb that washed ashore in New Plymouth in 1943.The visitor center and library that retained a section of wall from a former building
When Bob and I knew we would be coming back to New Zealand we knew we had to make time to get to New Plymouth where we did our first international house sit. That house sit was for two dogs, Jess and Baz, for 6 weeks back in 2015.
We have just had two lovely days revisiting some of our favorite areas in New Plymouth. It felt great to walk around and remember various places. We stayed at a motel near where our house sit was, so we started by walking by having breakfast at a favorite neighborhood spot and then walking by “our” house. We didn’t stop by to see the homeowners, as they have since moved to Auckland.
Cheese scone and spinach at the Federal StoreBob’s egg and bacon sandwichThe house that we cared for, the house being built beside it, and the path we walked the dogs.Beautiful greenery along the Te Henui pathwayAnother photo along the walkway
Another photo along the Te Henui
We also visited the Te Henui Cemetery along the trail — really beautiful and peaceful.
After walking along the Te Henui path inland, we walked it out to the coast to walk along the Coastal Walkway away from the town center.
Looking back towards townShore and coast shot at low tideLooking away from town to the Te Rewa Rewa bridgeWhat luck! Looking across the bridge to the mighty Mt Taranaki.Selfie with us, the bridge, and Mt TaranakiOne of two cute painted pebbles we found along the walkway
Our first full day in New Zealand was just about perfect. We awoke in Hamilton, a city of about 170,000 southeast of Auckland, and the third fastest-growing urban area. We had been in Hamilton briefly in 2015 when we had a layover during our bus trip from Taupo to New Plymouth. At that time, we were exclusively in the CBD and had a nice walk on part of their river walk and then a nice lunch at a cute, local restaurant.
This time our motel was a bit outside the CBD but very close to Lake Rotoroa with a great path around it. I ran around it early in the morning and told Bob we needed to go back during daylight to really see it. We were both glad we did.
Bob on train near lake/park entranceNo words — except gorgeous which I just kept repeatingA couple of localsA part of the trail that goes through a nature preserveAnother view of the lake and surrounding areaBecause I mustAnother view, I am so thankful for digital pics because I took a millionLook at the castle house overlooking the lake!
That was a little bit of awesome we thought. What could top that? Well, I don’t know about topping it (and does it really need to be a competition?), but the Hamilton Gardens that we visited next was pretty cool.
Hamilton Gardens is a public park which is owned and managed by the Hamilton City Council! It is free to the public. It is on the banks of the Waikato River (the one we had walked along downtown on our earlier visit). It includes a plethora (my term) of enclosed gardens, a lovely information center, a great lawn (where they were having a kite festival for kids), and cafes.
We were astonished at the number of gardens each somewhat hidden so that you think you are entering a small area but it just keeps going. They had gardens representing Japan, China, India, England, Italy, native New Zealand, plus modern art gardens and a sustainable food garden. We’d love to return in 2020 when their Surrealist garden will be done.
Signage as we entered the parkPart of the Japanese gardensBeth in the Chinese GardensBob in the Chinese GardenThe Modern Garden designed as a backyard patioThe Italian GardenIn the Native New Zealand GardenEnglish Tudor GardenPart of the Conceptual Art GardenAnother part of the Conceptual Art Garden — Lawn Bowling Party anyone?Art in the ParkArt along the LakeArt in the Lake
We left lovely Hamilton about 12:30 to head to New Plymouth. The distance between the two is only 147 miles but takes over 3 hours because of the VERY curvy and hilly terrain. To make it “worse” it was beautiful as well, but you can’t really enjoy it (especially if you’re driving) because you have to focus so much on the road. All-in-all a beautiful day.
Bob and I are in New Zealand. It was a long slog to get here, and we almost didn’t get out of Austin. We flew Delta and then Virgin Australia. The Delta Boarding agent called us to the gate shortly before the boarding process started to ask us if we had a visa to visit New Zealand. We didn’t need one since our stay is shorter than 3 months. We showed her info online that supported that. Her co-worker confirmed it, but her system wouldn’t let her proceed without the visa info, so she ended up having to call and get verbal approval. That person provided approval but wouldn’t document anything online to support her override of the system, so she had her co-worker type the approval so she could let us get on the plane. Apparently boarding agents get penalized for letting individuals on planes who don’t have approval to enter the country to which they are flying. We were very relieved when we were on the plane and it took off for LAX.
We arrived in LA about 6:30 pm, and our flight to Sydney, Australia didn’t leave until 11:45. The LAX Bradley International Terminal is interesting, but not really 4+ hours interesting. We were both amazed at the number of late night (to us) flights. We kept waiting for things to quiet down and stores to start to close, but we never saw it. People just kept coming in and new flights kept getting posted.
The 15 hour flight to Sydney was as comfortable as you’d think a long time spent sitting in a confined space would be for that length of time. We did luck out in that we had reserved an aisle and window seat in a 3-seat row hoping that no one would take the middle seat and that’s what happened so we had a bit more space than we might have. I don’t usually watch the movies on offer, but I did this time and was impressed. If you have a chance to see Stan and Ollie about Laurel and Hardy’s final year touring together across the UK take it, it’s a sweet movie. I also watched Free Solo (as did Bob who had already seen it) about the only guy to complete a free solo ascent of El Capitan. Still don’t get the desire there but completely in awe. Finally, Bob and I both watched a 30 min documentary on Sriracha sauce. Fun and interesting — the sauce originated in Thailand but the one most of us eat in the US (picture of rooster on bottle) was created by a Chinese man who came to the US from Vietnam and it’s made in CA.
We landed in the Sydney International terminal and were there for 2.5 hours until our flight to Auckland. We were dreading it because the last time we had to fly in there it was incredibly noisy and sterile with little room to walk around. We found it pleasantly changed. It was bright and quiet. They have even designated themselves as a quiet terminal (see below). Not sure what this means exactly, as people were talking without being hushed but they have obviously made some sound-proofing changes.
Questions allowed, if you can find someone who isn’t a Duty Store employee.Colorful banners
Meals prepared upstairs and attached to a belt that carried them downstairs to staff.
I know it’s just McDonald’s and it’s not the first use of this technology but for our sleep-deprived brains it provided a few minutes of entertainment.
After a 2.5 hour flight from Sydney we arrived in Auckland at 3:30 pm on Friday having left Austin at 5:15 pm on Wednesday, but we weren’t done yet. Prior to starting our house sit in Auckland, we wanted to revisit New Plymouth where we had done a 6-week house sit in 2015. Since it’s a 4+ hour drive from Auckland to New Plymouth, we decided to shorten the initial drive by only going as far as Hamilton the day of our arrival. It was a good decision because after having picked up our bags, calling the shuttle to take us to the offsite rental car agency, and then heading out in Auckland rush hour traffic the 1.5 hour drive was closer to 2.5 hours. We arrived at our motel at 6:45 pm. Bob got right back into his “wrong”-side of the road driving skills.
The motel gave us the typical New Zealand welcome — milk to take to your room to go with your tea or coffee.
Milk is a must here.Kiwis are also big on letting the mail people know exactly what they are and are not to leave.
It’s now Sunday and we are rested and loving this beautiful country. More travel news and photos to come.