Author: bbpeck

Today, was all about reading and books, although a bit differently than we expected. We started with a leisurely morning reading the paper, and John Crace making me laugh with his word phrasing

Then we headed off to the National Centre for Writing where we thought we would learn a bit about English writers. We did not, but we did learn about Dragon Hall, the lovely medieval building in which the Centre is housed. It was built around 1427 by a wealthy merchant.

While we didn’t learn anything about writers from our tour, the National Centre for Writing does seem to host a number of writing related events for the community and even has a cottage nearby to house writers or translators in residence. Also, I picked up a brochure that we would use for another walking tour of the city after we checked out the public library that Bob had researched for us.

The impressive sounding Norfolk and Norwich Millenium Library is housed in an impressive modern building called The Forum, which also houses cafes and other businesses.

After exploring the library, we headed out to do the walking route to find the book-themed benches around Norwich. During our walk, we also popped into the department store, Jarrold’s, which we had seen yesterday but hadn’t explored (very impressive food hall and 4 restaurants within the store!), and stopped into a local bakery, which used to just be a stall in the market but has now transferred into a brick and mortar building, for a lovely cheese scone. The walk also took us through a number of small alleyways in Norwich, so it made for a great walk even with the on again/off again rain that was not noted in our weather app.

Fun find of the day, and in memory of Bob’s dad who worked for the US Postal Service for many years.

Norwich is a city within the county of Norfolk, England. It is about 100 miles northeast of London and has a population of about 144,000. It claims to be the most complete medieval city in the UK. In 2012, it was designated as England’s first UNESCO City of Literature. (We hope to learn more about that tomorrow.)

Our inn had a handy map to help us explore, so we identified some places of interest to visit and headed out in the misty day.

We had seen that the Plantation Gardens were a must see, and they are located very close to the cathedral. We paid the 2 pounds to visit the small, but very lovely Italian gardens. The gardens were established over 100 years ago in an abandoned chalk quarry.

Bob and I arrived in Norwich this afternoon at about 3:20 after having traveled by train from Eastbourne to London, switching stations in London by tube, and then onward to Norwich. We had a short 10 minute walk to our hotel, where we’ll be for 3 nights.

Shortly after unpacking we went for a walk along the riverside walking path that we could catch near the train station.

We’re looking forward to exploring more of Norwich tomorrow.

After completing the multi-day hike and before a day of travel to Norwich tomorrow (a train, a tube and another train), Bob and I have had a pretty lazy day in Eastbourne.

We had the free breakfast at the hotel (a good buffet of hot and cold options), and then headed to a launderette to do some much needed laundry. The launderette was staffed, so we could get the proper coinage (7 pounds here for a wash versus 6 in Winchester) and we had a nice chat with a man, originally from South America but who has been in England for 60 years and has served king and country (his words) by serving some time in the military. He helped us as well with the machines.

From there, we walked to the rail station to print our tickets for tomorrow. After folding and packing our clothes. We had a lovely but windy walk on the promenade and out to the pier.

We have just woken up from a nap and feel quite content not doing much else today.

Bob and I completed the South Downs Way (SDW) at about 2:00 pm this afternoon. Today, we are the Big Head photo after almost 130 miles (according to Bob’s fitness tracker) with mileage to and from our accommodations included.

Today’s route was just over 13 miles with the most climbs balanced by awesome views, as we went up and over the Seven Sisters, down into Birling Gap, up and over Beachy Head, which seemed never-ending and then steeply down only to be taken backup and over a couple more hills to get into Eastbourne. There will be wine and a proper meal out tonight. Photos below.

We left The Dorset Inn in Lewes this morning a little less pleased with it than initially after the coffee machine in the room didn’t work and they offered only a continental breakfast of store-bought rolls, some fruit, cereal, and yogurt, and bread for make-your-own toast. That isn’t horrible, but there were no plates (but a few bowls), and when the other guest eating at the same time as us asked for butter for the toast, the staff member brought him 2 pats of butter. We would have had to ask for our own. Quite a unique experience and good for a story.

On the way back out of Lewes to return to the trail, Bob found us a route that took us by the home of Anne of Cleves, so we could at least get a photo. Anne was the 4th wife of Henry VIII, so was Queen for about 7 months in 1540. She was lucky enough to get out of the marriage with just an annulment instead of a beheading.

Bob tells me that today’s walk was the same length as yesterday’s, but it felt much different. We had an hour and 20 minute walk back to the trail, much of it steeply uphill, and that was only one of quite a few hill climbs today. We also had quite the downpour for about 30 or 40 minutes atop a couple of the hills later in the walk, that we luckily had dressed for before it started. However, after the burst, we were treated to sun that helped dry us out.

Bob and I really enjoyed our stay at the Tallai House last night. The room was cute and comfortable, and the host couple were very nice. Breakfast was also very good. I’m on a three day streak of salmon and scrambled eggs with toast for breakfast, and this morning, Bob joined me with the same order.

Our walk today was 15 miles from Pyecombe to Lewes (pronounced Lewis not Lou’s). The walk directly to Lewes would be much shorter, but the directions kept us west of Lewes for a bit along the South Downs Way before heading us back towards Lewes for a 3.3 mile walk off the trail to our inn, which gave us an opportunity to see a bit of this relatively large town (population 17,000).

We arrived at the inn in Lewes at about 2:10 and for the first time on this trip when we have arrived before check-in time (generally 3:00 pm, although yesterday it was 4:00), we were able to get into our room. It’s just always nice to be able to settle in, shower, etc., when we get into town, especially in the smaller communities with nothing else really to do. Our room here is also the largest so far, which adds to the comfort of the stay.

It was a good walk with good weather. Some cold winds initially, but the sun stayed out for most of the walk and helped to warm things up.

In addition to the new scenery that Bob and I are seeing on this trip, we have been learning some new geography terms as well in reading the route instructions in the guide book. For example (definitions based on a quick Google search) —

Downs (as in South Downs Way) — an area of open land with low hills, especially in South England.

Weald — a formerly wooded district of Southeastern England

*Combe (rhymes with room according to our host for the night) — a short valley or hollow on a hillside or coastline

That’s it for today’s lesson, but interesting to learn some terms particular to this region.

Today’s hike was a short 12 miles; however, with a number of ups and downs, weather related clothing changes, and a short stop for a lunch snack, it took us almost exactly 6 hours, which is about the same or a bit longer than our last 2 hikes even though the mileage was longer.

We had breakfast (included in the tour daily) at about 7:30 and we’re on our way by about 8:15. The wind continued to be fairly strong and chill, and we had a bit of rain as well today, although not as strong as Monday. We began with an hour walk through and out of Steynring to get back to where we had left the trail yesterday.

Day 3 of 8 hiking days. The lodging properties that our hiking outfitter selected includes breakfast. This morning’s meal at the Blue Bell Inn in Cocking was our best yet. Bob got a breakfast burger (egg, sausage, bacon, hash brown, and mushroom) that came with fries, and Beth got a vegetarian main. Both were tasty.

Today’s route took us from Cocking to Amberley. Checking our weather apps, we saw chances of rain around 9-10 am, so we got out ahead of it so we might get an initial big hill in prior to the rain. We succeeded, but Bob saw on radar a fairly big system likely to pass through at 10:30. We were prepared for it, but the wind and rain for awhile was fairly intense. Luckily, both came from behind and slightly to the right, so as we had trees on our right-side, they helped serve as a buffer to both. Of course, the rain increased the muddiness of the trail.

Even after the front went through, the wind stayed strong and was mostly at our backs, pushing us to Amberley. The mileage today of 12 miles was significantly lower than the 21 and 20 miles we had the previous two days, which allowed us to get to town early. We couldn’t check-in until 3pm, so we walked around the small town.

Bob and I have completed our longest hike of the tour. 21 miles, 8 hours and 20 minutes. We rolled into the Blue Bell Inn and Pub in Cocking at about 5 pm and quickly showered and changed, so we could hit the pub before it closed at 6:00. We were out of luck for food since it’s a Sunday and kitchen closed at 4pm but we’re able to get a celebratory wine and a couple bags of chips. We had also picked up some canned goods before leaving East Meon, knowing that nothing would be open tonight.

We’re feeling pretty cocky after having climbed and descended quite a few hills (Salt Hill, Hyden Hill, Tegdown Hill, Butser Hill, Tower Hill, Pen Hill, Treyford Hill) and trekked through a park and natural area (Queen Elizabeth Country Park, Harting Downs Nature Reserve). And we think we should feel cocky in Cocking, a small village with an 11th century church that we passed on the way into town.

Our day didn’t start great, as we wanted to have an early start. However, our bed and breakfast didn’t start serving until 8:00 am and that seemed to be a stretch for them. We were down right at 8 and were offered coffee, orange juice, cereal, and toast. Not bad, but we were hoping for a bit more before the long hike. However, it ended up being fine, as did the hike today since we didn’t run into bad weather and didn’t have to walk through water today until coming into Cocking.

Here are photos of the hike.