Bob and I had a great day today exploring the waterfront area of Copenhagen by boat, and then taking a 40-minute train ride over the Oresund Bridge to Malmo, Sweden. We ended with a drink at the Nimb Hotel on the grounds of Tivoli Park, which we had seen promoted (both the hotel and park) on an international hotel show that we saw while in the UK.
Due to the amount of photos, I’m going to break today’s activities into 2 blogs — one for Copenhagen and one for Malmo.
The Copenhagen waterfront is active with pedestrians and bicyclists on the 13k hiking/biking trail and people enjoying the water in kayaks, small rental boats, harbor taxis, and tourist boats like what we rode in today. During our 1 hour tour, along with the cultural and military sights, we also saw a boat that picked up trash, a lifeguard boat as well, lots of moored houseboats as well as some floating houses, and a couple of swimmers.
Bob and I on our boat, ready for the rideThe opera house, where they perform opera but also hold an annual diving contest from off of the roofThe Copenhagen Incinerator, which incinerates garbage to produce energy, but the outside of the building has a rock climbing wall as well as a ski slope.A still functioning military siteThe popular Little Mermaid statue. Bob and I have also seen the duplicate along the waterfront in Vancouver.Going under one of the many low bridges Going down a residential quiet zone canalThe spire of Our Savior’s Church which can be climbed. The church also has a 4,000 pipe organ from 1698.Some colorful buildings along the routeThe circle bridge in front and the Black Diamond behind. The Black Diamond is a part of the Royal Library. You can check out books and view exhibitions.The Blox Building, which contains the Danish Architecture Center, design shop, and rooftop cafe.Thorvaldsens Museum, where the art work of Bertelsmann Thorvaldsen is displayed and where he is also buried Our drinks at the Nimb Hotel after our Sweden excursionThe view of the popular and multi-faceted Tivoli Park from the bar at the Nimb Hotel
First, a few fun facts about Copenhagen. The city has a population of about 700,000, with a population of 1.4 million in the greater urban area. It has 250 miles of bike lanes, and is the capital of Denmark (or Danmark to the Danes).
Today, we headed to the geographic center of the city center but a bit north of the main tourist spots. We had an easy 25 minute commute, 5 minutes by foot to the Bella Center stop on the M1 line, and then 17 minutes to the Nørreport stop. We saw a number of beautiful park areas today, other museums, toured the Denmark Design Museum and then walked through the governmental plaza to the Kongens Nytorv metro for the ride back to the hotel. Had some mist off and on, but not too bad.
Our first park visit was to Ørsted Park, a cute city park that was built on a section of the large fortification ring that was constructed around Copenhagen in the 17th century. It has a lovely lake, meandering walking paths, and a number of bronze statues.
Some flora between the walking path and the lakeA memorial to Hans Christian Orsted, a Danish physicist and the namesake of the park
From Orsted Park we walked to the Botanical Garden, much of which, unfortunately, was undergoing maintenance. But it was still lovely. On the way, we got a unique big head photo for Bob.
Finally, a normal photo.Some of the flora in the Botanical GardenDittoDitto
After walking through what was open of the Botanical Garden, we walked farther along the road to Østre Anlæg Park, with a couple more museums and more gardens and ponds.
The National Gallery of DenmarkA secluded garden in the parkOne of the ponds in the park
We then walked to the Kastellet (citadel), a lovely star-shaped fortress built in the 17th century as part of the larger fortification ring around Copenhagen. It now contains a number of memorials as well as a windmill.
The bridge across the moat and entrance to the areaLooking across the moat from the bridge to the St. Alban’s ChurchThe Citadel WindmillLooking towards the harbor from our walk atop the citadel groundsThe Museum of Danish Resistance near the citadel park
The Design Museum was just a short walk away, and we decided to pay to visit. We were not alone. It was popular today. In addition to the regular visits, the museum had special exhibits on Japanese screen printing, futuristic designs, and a man who has created his version of outfits representing different areas of Denmark.
The museum noted that Danish Design became an international concept in 1949 after some American journalists visited the annual furniture exhibition of the Copenhagen Cabinetmaker’s Guild.
Denmark Design MuseumEntrance to the regular exhibits4 chairs from the hallway of chairsBob with the Irma girl, the logo for Irma, the 2nd oldest supermarket chain in the world. Irma was established in Copenhagen in 1886.
From the Design Museum, we continued down Bredgade Street, where we saw Frederick’s Church and then walked on to the Kongens Nytorv metro station.
Frederick’s Church. The large Magasin du Nord store with an impressive food shop in the basement from which we could walk down to the metro
Bob and I traveled from London Stansted Airport to Copenhagen today. Unexpectedly, we had a better experience with Ryan Air than with the airport in general. We had expected our bags to be overweight for Ryan Air, and they were not, so that made us happy as we didn’t have to pay extra money. We also thought there would be quite the queue for the bag dump, but all went well.
We started having (admittedly first world) issues after making our very long way through the duty free shops. I had wanted to buy one last UK newspaper, but by 8 am any shop that sold newspapers were sold out, and quite honestly the stores looked like quite a mess. More importantly, however, we are currently unable to use international data roaming, so are reliant on Wi-Fi, and the wifi at the airport was terrible. So we felt very old school and out of touch for our time at Stansted and were happy to leave it behind when our flight left.
We left London about 40 minutes late, but made up time in the air and arrived in Copenhagen only 15 minutes late. We had a quick trip through Immigration— only asked about length of stay — and absolutely nothing to do for customs.
Artwork on the wall in the Copenhagen Airport More fun artwork
After picking up our baggage, we headed towards the metro, where we bought and put a balance on a couple of train cards, as we will be using the metro and trains frequently while here.
We took the metro from the airport 7 stops, where we changed to another line for a 4 stop ride to where we got off to walk a few blocks to the AC Hotel. This hotel is connected to a convention center and is south of the downtown core of Copenhagen.
View of the area from where we got off the metroThe two-towered AC HotelPart of the atrium of the hotelView of a golf course from our room on the 20th floorView of the other tower and surroundings from the 20th floor
After getting settled in the room, we left to check out a bit of the surrounding area. Much of it seems new, but we did find some cute small groceries and walked through an older housing area across a couple of canals from our hotel.
The Bella Arena near the AC Hotel, an event spaceAn outdoor patio space for a restaurant Some of the housing/retail areas near the metro stopThe canal near the main road near our hotelA duck house in the canal and evidence of the many bike riders in the areaThe 2nd canal we crossed
We’re looking forward to getting into the city center tomorrow.
Bob and I left Bury St Edmunds today after seeing the happy return of our homeowners from their driving trip through Norway. Angus and Mollie were quite excited to see them. Our homeowner kindly offered to drive us to the train station as it was raining.
We then caught the bus replacement service to Ely, due to work being conducted on the rail line, where we had a short wait for an initially very busy train to London Stansted Airport via Cambridge and Audley End.
We are spending the night at the Hampton Inn next to the airport as we have an early morning flight tomorrow to Copenhagen. We’ll be flying Ryan Air for the first time, so are expecting to have to pay more for our bags as their weight limit is a little lower than other airlines.
One of the signs outside of the airport Following the signage from the airport to the hotel in the back left of the photoThe lobby of the hotel where we had a 1/2 hour wait to check in since we arrived about 2 pmThe view of one of the 2 terminals from our room on the 7th floor
We walked back to the airport to pick up dinner before the start of the England game in the Eurocup, and both the airport and hotel seem quite busy.
Bob and I took our 3rd trip east today on the East Anglia train in the direction of Ipswich. The first time, we went to Ipswich, the 2nd time we went to Needham Market (stop just before Ipswich), and today, we visited Stowmarket (the stop before Needham Market). It was a quick 20 minute ride.
Just as a random aside, I liked this quick journey because there were only two stops before Stowmarket, and I remember them because I seem to have immediately associated them with other words. The first stop out of Bury is Thurston (Howell III from Gilligan’s Island TV show), and the second stop is (Alls well that) Elmswell. This is the kind of stuff that amuses my brain, and don’t even get me started on the town of Diss. I can solo laugh for quite awhile with that one.
Anyhoo, back to Stowmarket. As we noted during our trip to Ipswich, there is a 17 mile trail that connects Ipswich and Stowmarket and that runs along the River Gipping. As we did in Ipswich, we started our visit to Stowmarket with a short walk along the trail. While the path was fairly clear right in town, it was very narrow and surrounded by tall grasses as we left the town center.
Our first view of Stowmarket as we crossed the raised walkway at the train station The start of our walk along the GippingLooking back at one of the bridges we walked under along the pathThe narrow path behind an old mill in townAnother bridge over the RiverThe narrowing path as we left the town centerA close-up of some pretty purple flowers along the pathMore purple Lots of green growth in the very shallow (at least this part) River
Stowmarket is a market town with a population of approximately 21,000. Unbeknownst to us it was one of their biweekly market days today, the other being Saturday. There was a fairly active high street, and we enjoyed our walk around town.
The bridge over the River Gipping that we crossed to go into the town centerThe church of St Peter and St Mary, which dates to the 14th century. We popped inside and much of the nave is now given over to a cafe.Walking towards the high street from the church The main intersection on the high streetLooking down the high streetOne of the local pubsThe Regal Cinema, which hosts live performances and filmsThe cafe and gift shop for the Food Museum. We didn’t spend the 15 pounds each on the museum, but the shop was super cute and they were holding a screen printing class.Part of today’s market stalls
As we start our last week in Bury St Edmunds, Bob and I are still finding new paths to walk. Today, Bob and I walked a bit on the Lark Valley Path where it runs in conjunction with St Edmunds Way. We headed to the train station to catch a path that brought us through a nice neighborhood to our desired route. Once on the path, we then walked north along the River Lark past a golf course before turning around and making our way back to near the train station for a Tesco run for ingredients for a kimchi omelette for dinner tonight.
Starting onto the St Edmunds Way/Lark Valley PathThe initial crushed stone portion of the path Looking east across the RiverDittoThe golf course on the west of the riverMore homes across the riverThe lush growth on the riverbanksThe now grass portion of the trailGolfers out enjoying the courseA lovely home and garden along the trailThe River LarkTrail signageAnother shot of the golf course. Bob collected 3 golf balls on the trail and returned them to the course.A bridge across the river for the golfers
One of the best parts of this UK trip has been visiting with former homeowners/now friends. Today, our Cambridge friends, Sue and Peter, treated us to a surprise outing to Ely. While Bob and I had visited Ely before while house sitting in Cambridge, today’s visit allowed us to see new sites while catching up. It was a lovely day in lovely summer weather!
The 4 amigos, Sue, me, Peter, and BobA statue of Garfield cat, known for frequenting the nearby Sainsbury’s, and his bench in a pretty Ely parkThe River OuseOne of the rooms in the cute Peacock Teahouse where we had a lovely lunchEly Cathedral, which began as a monastery in 673. It was closed by Henry VIII in 1540.The cathedral made a great location for the sculptural art exhibit by Sean Henry. The appropriately named Standing Man and Standing Woman.Bob and Seated Figure in the cathedral lawnA view down the Norman nave of the cathedral Looking up to the top of the West TowerqThe octagon, which separates the nave from the choirStanding Man in the north transeptThe pulpitThe tomb of George Basevi, a well known architect whose most important public work is the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge. He fell to his death when inspecting the West Tower of the cathedral.Lying ManMan Looking UpHeddaSleeperA local bookstore Inside the great bookstore
And to top off the great day we got to learn about the My BlackBerry isn’t Working skit by Ronnie Corbett and Harry Enfield. So funny!
This has nothing to do with the musings below. Just a reminder.
Whether weather? Wherefore art thou, summer weather? This is a tiny gritch in the big scheme of things, especially considering the man above and his possible 2nd presidency, but kinda surprised about the weather we’ve been having. It seems as if April may have been our warmest month. I think we may have had three days in Bury where it has reached 70 degrees F, but they have been quite spread apart. We are definitely not freezing but a bit surprised that we’ve had days in June that haven’t reached 60 and mornings still in the 40s.
Food. Bob and I rarely do big grocery shops while we’re traveling. While this would likely be more economical, it’s easier to carry smaller loads, and we enjoy the daily walk to the shop and also frequenting different stores. We have had a wealth of options here. To date, we have shopped at Aldi, ASDA (super store), Tesco (super store), Nisa Local, Waitrose, Co-op, and Sainsbury (super store). One of the things that we appreciate about the stores here is the markdown items section to help the older items sell. It always pays to check out this section for items we like anyway, especially produce, as we feel like we’re helping reduce food waste and they still cook or roast up nicely.
Books. Bob and I attended another book talk this week. This one was at the library, where they aren’t keen on pictures, so no photos, and was for a series of mystery books by the author Tom Mead. It was an interesting talk, although the moderator jumped right in with questions without presenting any background or introduction, but maybe that’s how these things go and we should have read the book first? Anyway, it was still an interesting talk, and we did learn a lot about the settings of the novel and some of the thinking of the author in terms of the 4 books he has now written. We have been surprised that these presentations come with free wine and/or juice and sometimes nibbles as well. I don’t know that this would be the case in the States for a book reading/discussion at a museum or library.
That’s it for now. We’re off to a gin festival tomorrow night at a cathedral, as you do, so will let you know how that goes.
Up the street from us and just around the corner is the West Suffolk Sixth Form College (similar to a junior college), where Bob read that they had a cooking program and a related restaurant, Edmunds, open to the public. Reservations are required while the restaurant is open during the school term, and by the time we learned about the restaurant, there were only reservations available for the lunch service. So today, we had a lovely long lunch while we helped to train some future culinary superstars.
Lunch is offered from 11:00 to 1:15, and there was plenty of staff on hand for food and bar service. There was also a manager/teacher helping to run things and checking on customers. All of our food was very good, and while we’re not sure our wait person has found his real calling (low energy, had to ask someone else for the answer to every question), he was very nice. He may prefer back of house operations. We’re not sure how the program works.
The Suffolk Regiment Museum at the end of our street and adjacent to the schoolApproaching the restaurant, which is accessed only from the car park and not from the front of the school building The view from the window near our tableThe interior of the restaurant Today’s menuWe both got the pea velouté appetizer. Very good!Bob’s bass main course My broad bean ravioli Bob’s brownie and some kind of ice cream. The menu said vanilla. The server made a point of coming back to say it wasn’t served with vanilla, but we didn’t understand (and couldn’t tell) the new flavor.My strawberry and pistachio parfait.
No more food for us today. We definitely recommend Edmunds for lunch or dinner. Good prices, great food, and good to help with training the next culinary generation.
Bob and I took the train today for a quick 25 minute ride to Needham Market to walk around the lake on a path we had seen from the train when we went to Ipswich and then check out the high street. See photos below from our short visit.
Needham Market Train Station Crossing under the rail line to the Needham Lake Nature Trail via a low-ceilinged cattle tunnel.Even I had to stoop going through the tunnelOne of the many informational posts about animals along the trailNeedham Lake, where tomorrow they will hold a circus-themed homemade raft raceA chainsawed bench by Ben Platts-Mills in the shape of SuffolkSignage for a longer trail that runs alongside the lake trail for a bit on its way from Oxford to FelixstoweDucks in the lakeA carved wood statue of mother and childThe Visitors Center (with a cafe of course) and playground Walking the path along the River Gipping near Needham LakeThe River GippingWe never seem to be far from sheepCarved wood mushrooms along the lake trail
We snapped a couple of pubs on the high street and popped into an old church and cute hotel.
St John the Baptist Parish Church, built between 1458 and 1500The interior of the church A glimpse into one of the bars in the cute Lime Hotel