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A Battle, A Town, and an Abbey (2/8/26)

One of the most important battles in English history was the Battle of Hastings in 1066. If you have ever had a British Lit course or other American or World history course, you likely have come across this event at some point. To go to the site of this battle though, you would head today not to the town of Hastings, England, but to the town of Battle about 6 miles northwest.

I headed to Battle by train today to look at the site of the important battle, see a bit of the town of Battle, and then look at what remains of the abbey that was built by the battle’s victor to commemorate those who died in the battle.

It was a 30 minute train ride south to Battle, which gets its name from the Battle of Hastings. (Guess the only other option for the town name would have been “Of” since Hastings was already taken.). Its current population is about 6,700.

The Battle Rail Station, completed in 1852
and designed in the style of the Battle Abbey.
A pub near the Battle Rail Station
Walking along the abbey wall on the way to the entrance
St Mary the Virgin Church near the abbey and battlefield
Stores and a plaza across from the entrance
from the abbey and battlefield
A close up of some Valentines themed yarn art
in front of the entrance

A bit of background on the battle and abbey. The English Anglo-Saxon King Edward the Confessor died without an heir in January of 1066 which set up a struggle for succession to the throne. The two armies at the Battle of Hastings were that of the Anglo-Saxon King Harold, who claimed that Edward had wanted him to be king, and William, Duke of Normandy, a region of France. Both wanted to be seen as the true ruler of England.

William’s armies sailed from France to Hastings for the attack. Harold brought his army to Hastings after hearing of William’s intent and after his army had just had to fend off an attack from his brother and a Viking army. After the day long battle, Harold and much of his army was killed, and William became known as William the Conqueror and initiated the Norman conquest of England.

William founded the abbey in 1094 to atone for the violence of the battle and to commemorate his victory. It was a Benedictine Abbey for up to 140 Benedictine monks until 1538 when it was closed as part of Henry VIII’s Suppression of the Monasteries to confiscate their wealth. For the next 400 years, the abbey was an aristocratic residence for a number of families. In 1976, Battle Abbey was presented to the State.

Looking at the gate house entrance
to the abbey and battlefield from the plaza
The former great hall for the abbey which is now a school
The Museum and cafe with exhibits and a film
that provides a good overview of the battle
The history of kings for England and Normandy,
with the Battle of Hastings participants highlighted in yellow
Walking along the terrace between an abbey wall on the left
and the battlefield on the right
The battlefield. William struggled to break
the ranks of the English until part of his army started retreating and the English army followed.
A former storage room for provisions for the abbey
under accommodations for abbey guests
The remains of the dormitory for the monks
Inside the lower level of the dormitory
The communal sleeping room in the dormitory
A view of the remains of the chapter house
(where monks assembled in the mornings to hear readings)
from the upper level of the dormitory
A dairy from when the property
had been converted to a country house
An ice house from the same period
The remains of the crypt of the church
which was built on the site where King Harold had been killed
A memorial presented to the English in 1903
by the Norman Historical Society of France to dispel the cloud which hovered over relations between England and France
The abbey wall which could be walked on
The towers of the gatehouse contain relics found on site
and descriptions of the lives of the monks at the abbey
A view of the town of Battle from the top of the towers
Looking back to the former abbey grounds and battlefield
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A Night Out (2/4/26)

One of the places we like to check out in the areas we stay in are the theaters. Sometimes there are tours provided, but sometimes we’ll look for shows that appeal to us so we can see the inside of local theaters. There are two theaters in town, the Assembly Hall Theatre, which seems to be part of the same building as the Town Hall and Amelia Museum, and the Trinity Theatre which is in the former Trinity Church building.

The Trinity Theatre does a lot with children’s theater and also offers community classes like exercise groups for seniors. We decided to focus on the more varied offerings at the Assembly Hall Theatre. We found a program of short films that we used to go to see when we lived in Austin, Texas. These are part of the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour. They are always films about people doing active, adventurous things in beautiful parts of the world.

The Assembly Hall Theatre announcing the Banff program

We thought we’d make it a big night out for us by going to dinner beforehand. Happily, last night was one of the few nights we’ve been here where it didn’t rain.

We caught a bus right at the end of the driveway that took us into downtown. We got off at the war memorial right in front of the Town Hall. It was a short walk from there to the Hotel du Vin where we had reservations for an early dinner.

The pretty Hotel du Vin, a hotel and bistro,
and one of 19 around Great Britain
A Royal fact for this particular hotel location

We had a few minutes before our 5:00 pm reservation, so we had a quick look around the ground floor of the hotel.

The outer room of the hotel bar
One of the rooms of the tea lounge
Some French-inspired photos in the lounge
The main room of the bistro
The side room we chose to sit in

We opted for the 3-course prix fixe menu for 29 pounds or about 40 US dollars. We both ordered the same starter and dessert but chose different main courses. We preferred the starter and dessert to the mains.

This was the starter — salmon rillettes
with perfectly toasted baguette slices.
Bob ordered the halloumi cassoulet.
I got the sea bass, which came with the head on
and lots of spiny pieces to look out for.
Bad order on my part,
as I do not enjoy feeling like a hunter eating my prey
and having to dig for the meat. Not much was eaten.
The roasted fennel, however, was quite yummy.

And finally, the lovely dessert.

Pot de chocolat with pomegranates, pistachios, and cranberries.
I could eat it every night.

After the posh meal, we walked across the street to the theater. The inside wasn’t near as attractive as many we have been in, but the seats were comfy and the staff was friendly.

The theater lobby
Looking up to the orchestra level of the theater
The screen in the theater before the movies started

We saw a total of five short films — from 6 minutes to 47 minutes. Most were just shy of 1/2 hour. The films we saw included mountain biking in Nepal, river rapids rafting in Gabon, running a 100+ mile race in Tennessee, two dads with their 2 year old sons biking in Switzerland, and rock climbing in Patagonia. There was a drawing for gifts after intermission (called interval here), but we didn’t have our names drawn. Still, a lovely night out.

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Cheap and Dirty (2/2/26)

Happy Groundhog Day if you’re a celebrator of this holiday and/or if your favorite animal prognosticator gave you the verdict you were hoping for in terms of length of winter. We don’t have any wild parties planned.

One of the Things To Do in Tunbridge Wells is to take a train ride on the short Spa Valley Railway. It runs from the old Tunbridge Wells West Train Station to the little town of Eridge, stopping at Groombridge and sometimes High Rocks. They offer both train rides on a steam train or historic diesel train (an out and back trip being about an hour if you don’t get off) as well as themed rides on the same trains for Burns Night or Valentines Day, etc.

We’ve been intrigued about these rides (me a bit more than Bob), but the trains currently only run on the weekends and the weather hasn’t been great. However, my recent research on Apple Maps showed me that one could walk to the High Rocks station (first one out of Tunbridge Wells) in about an hour from the house. Since this looked like the cutest stop, and the train doesn’t always stop there due to being a popular place for private events, I thought I might try walking there today.

No rain was in the forecast (but some fell anyway), and I headed out about 10:30 for a walk that would take me down to the busy road across from the Commons before heading west through a short neighborhood road before getting onto a path that took me all the way to High Rocks. It proved to be an inexpensive and close up way to experience the nature that the train would be passing, but it was not the easiest or cleanest of walks. Rain has consequences.

A small pond in the Commons
The short road through a neighborhood
that ended at the start of the path
The gate onto the path
The beginning of the mud fest
Crossing a small stream
A natural obstacle course
At some point the path entered the Friezland Wood.

The Friezland Wood lies on the border of Kent and East Sussex. It is 8 hectares, has some impressive high sandstone rocks, and lies within the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The High Weald National Landscape covers an area of 1,450 square kilometers and takes up part of Kent, Surrey, East Sussex, and West Sussex . The landscape has small farms and woodlands, historic parks, sunken lanes, and ridge top villages.

I may have missed some of the natural beauty while I was focused on my footing.

An underpass below the rail line
The path along a stream
Another view of the stream and the different shades of green

The following pics show some of the High Rocks that give the area that I was walking to its name.

This one was on the very edge of the wood,
as I walked onto the road towards the station.
This is the very cute High Rocks event venue,
closed on Monday and Tuesdays.
The side patio of the event venue
Across the street from the event venue,
you can enter the High Rocks National Monument for 10 pounds, Wednesday through Sunday.

Access to the train station was gated off as it lies just below the event venue.

A fun fungi photo on the way back
The train station in Tunbridge Wells where the train departs,
at the other end of the car park for the Sainsbury’s
where we have been grocery shopping.
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Tonbridge Castle (2/1/26)

Today I took the train to Tonbridge, a short 10 minute ride, to visit the Tonbridge Castle. Bob didn’t come with, as there a lot of uneven stairs in the castle and his right hip has been really bothering him.

The castle is conveniently located along the High Street in Tonbridge, a town that’s a good location for a fortified castle as it’s between London and seaports to the south. (Fun fact if AI can be trusted, Tonbridge was originally Tunbridge, but was forced to change its spelling in the 1870s to avoid confusion with Tunbridge Wells, which was faster growing due to its reputation as a spa town.)

Walking along the High Street between the rail station and castle
Some functional public art in a plaza along the High Street
An example of the buildings along the street
My first view of the castle from the street

The site of the castle was chosen for its views of the town and for its close proximity to the River Medway. It was originally a motte (mound) and bailey (courtyard) design — a fortified tower on a mound, surrounded by a timber wall surrounding a yard.

The old castle was gifted to Richard Fitzgilbert (later to be called de Clare) by William the Conqueror for coming with him from Normandy and fighting with him in the Battle of Hastings, the start of the Norman Conquest. The de Clare family owned the castle, in various iterations, for over 300 years. The castle was ultimately seized by Henry VIII in 1521 and bought by the town in 1897.

The tour cost 10 pound 50 (or 14.45 US dollars), and it included an audio guide for the self-guided tour. This being a slow season and a rainy day, I pretty much had the inside of the castle to myself, which was sometimes a little freaky.

Another view of the walls and castle along the River
A cannon on a small green area near the car park
and entrance to the castle
Looking down on the moat near
where I entered through the gatehouse
The gatehouse and gift shop from the castle grounds side
(as opposed to the parking lot side).
This stone gatehouse was probably built between 1260 and 1265.

Once I had purchased the ticket and received the audio guide, I went back out to the parking side of the gatehouse while the audio described the different features of the towers and archway. One of the features noted in the archway were the “murder holes,” square holes in the ceiling which guards inside could fire through to kill raiding armies. These will be seen later on.

I then used a fob provided with the audio set to gain entrance to the gatehouse, where I started the inside portion of the tour in the dark basement— by myself.

This is the store room,
and that very real looking person is the bookkeeper.
I had to walk by him to get into the next small, dark room.
This is the armory with swords in the barrel
and evolving headwear on the wall.
The ones that I have cut off on top
are the most recent versions (relatively speaking).
More people for me to hang out with.
These are the seldom bathed and lice-covered guards,
or so said the short film that appeared
on the screen behind the table.

From here, I got to peek into a privy, where they had a guy sitting on the loo. Sorry, no photos of that. But then I got to climb all the way to the top and go out a door for some outside photos of the area. It was raining but still impressive.

This is the motte (a large man-made hill) next to the castle
A view to the northeast
A hazy view over the river
Looking over the top of one tower
Another view of the town over the roof
This was the main living area
but also the area above the entry arch
These are the “murder holes” in the floor, now filled in with glass
One of the 2 steep circular staircases that I took during the tour
(as guided by instructions on the audio set)
Looking at the partial wall around the castle that still stands
Another view of the castle moat

After the tour, I popped into a couple of shops as I made my way back to the station. The train was on time in both directions. There was a fun mural in the Tunbridge Wells train station highlighting significant moments in their history.

Of course, the receipt of the Royal appendage to the town name
Still not sure of the importance of a Master of Ceremonies,
but the town is proud of Beau Nash.