From Primrose Hill, Bob and I walked about 15 minutes to Camden Market, a vibrant center of over 1,000 stalls, shops, bars, and cafes.
One of the entrances to the marketSitting with a soda and people watchingAn interior section of the marketA statue of the late singer Amy Winehouse. It’s near one of her hangouts, The Lock Tavern. Camden is also the area of London where she died in 2011 at age 27.
We left the market for a 25 minute walk along the Regent’s Canal to check out coal Drops Yard that we had heard about from Susan and Peter.
A lock along the Regent’s CanalLooking back towards Camden Market
Before reaching Coal Drops Yard, we came upon the Gasholders, cast-iron gasholder guide frames used to contain a public garden space as well as residential apartments and penthouses.
The gasholder gardenA view of the garden from inside the cast-iron frame
Coal Drops Yard is next to the Gasholders. It is a converted area that had been used for the dropping of coal for distribution by horse or cart. It is now a space for multiple shops, businesses, and restaurants, as well as public gathering spaces.
An entrance into Coal Drops YardOne of the many fun facts that you can learn about the history of the areaA pic of the round gasholder residential buildings behind the renovated Coal Drops YardAn elevated walkway at the Coal Drops Yard that reminded us of the Highline in New York CityMore shopping stallsPublic steps
Today, Bob and I had a great 4 hour, 8 mile walk on a lovely summer day here in London. We walked through Kensington, where we’re staying, into Paddington, and then onto Primrose Hill, Camden Market, and Coal Drops Yard. This is the first of two blogs about our outing.
Leaving our hotel on Lexham Gardens Road, which is mostly lined with hotels that look like residential buildings Before getting to Kensington Gardens, we passed some embassies. The one on the left is the Belarus embassy, and the one on the right is the Mongolian embassy.
We walked through one edge of Kensington Gardens. It was a lovely part of our walk today but wasn’t a destination, as we have visited the palace and much of the gardens on prior visits.
The “Physical Energy” bronze by G.F. Watts in the parkKensington Palace from across the lawnThe Italian Gardens in the park
Our original destination was Primrose Hill for what we had read was the best view of London; however, since our walk was taking us through Paddington, I requested that we look up the new Paddington Pocket Park that I had read about.
“The Wild Table of Love” bronze by Gillie and Marc on a street corner near the Paddington Underground station.We’re always stumbling on places where famous people once lived or worked. Sir Fleming seems especially important, and there was a museum of his laboratory in this building.Buildings along the Paddington BasinThe Floating Pocket Park, which opened in 2017 and is built on pontoonsThis might be a fun visit someday, and it is aptly located on Baker Street.The Boating Lake in the very large Regent’s ParkSome tree sculptures in the parkCrossing the Regent’s Canal over to Primrose HillLooking over Primrose Hill Park towards the London skyline
After returning to the room after our V&A Museum visit yesterday, we relaxed in the room for a bit before prepping for our theater outing. We walked to the Gloucester Square station to catch the District line to the Embankment station. We left a bit early, so we had some time before the doors opened (3:15 for the 4:00 show), so we walked around the area a bit.
The Victoria Embankment Gardens made for a nice, mostly shaded walk.
A historic gate into the gardensSome flowers alongside a cafeOur famous Scottish friend, Robert Burns.The type of statue I think Bob wouldn’t mind having made for him at some point.
The musical “Six” is about the six wives of Henry VIII — Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Catherine Howard, and Catherine Parr, two of whom he divorced, two of whom he had beheaded, one who died of natural causes while they were married, and one who outlived him and remarried.
The majority of the quick, upbeat 80 minute performance has each of the wives telling the story of their marriage to see which one had the worst situation. They then decide to reclaim their legacy, as each obviously was their own person with a life before their marriage and some had a life after as well.
It’s a fun show with a bit of history thrown in. It also has connections with Cambridge and Scotland, as it was written in 2017 by two Cambridge University students and had its world debut at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. The cast and the onstage band are all female.
The Vaudeville Theatre where the show was playingBefore the show beganDuring the encore when phones/cameras were allowed
On the way to the show we had passed the Savoy Hotel, which Bob remembered had The American Bar, which was on the list of the best bars in London. We thought we’d try again for a Vesper cocktail even though we were both still collarless.
We headed there after the show, and the staff could not have been friendlier. So, we ended up having our very posh drink in a very posh place with some fun history. It is one of the longest surviving American bars which came to prominence in London in the ‘20s and ‘30s.
Harry Craddock, an English bartender, was a pivotal figure in the bar during the Prohibition period in America. He is best known for compiling the “Savoy Cocktail Book,” and for popularizing American-style cocktails in London. In 1934, he also co-founded the United Kingdom’s Bartender’s Guild. A fun history-filled afternoon!
The entrance to the Savoy HotelOne view of the American BarOur vespers and free munchies (though well paid for in the price of the drinks)
Our dalliance with poshness is coming to a close. We’ll be back to our commonhood tomorrow or at least by the time we leave London.
After our lovely buffet breakfast on Thursday, Bob and I walked about 10 minutes up Cromwell Road to the Victoria and Albert Museum to see what we could see before we needed to get ready to go to the musical “Six,” for which we had tickets for the 4:00 pm show.
One view of the Natural History Museum, which is right next to the Victoria and Albert Museum Another view of the very attractive Natural History Museum
Both the Natural History Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum are free to enter, but the Natural History Museum encourages you to book a timed ticket, and they didn’t have any available for this morning.
The V&A, per their website, is a family of museums dedicated to sharing a 5,000 year old story of creativity through collections, exhibitions, events, etc. It began as the Museum of Manufacturers in 1852. Bob and I had enjoyed our last visit to the V&A in Kensington and decided to go back. We arrived about 10:15 this morning and took part in the free 10:30 Highlights of the V&A tour.
The entrance to the museumThe baroque statue of Neptune and Triton by BerniniAltarpiece of St. George, about 1420-25, made in Valencia, Spain (where Beth studied for a semester in college).A plinth of George Frideric Handel for Vauxhall Hall by RoubiliacThe music room from the Norfolk House, 1937The John Madejski GardenThe very lovely Garden Cafe.A peek into the National Art Museum, only open to members
One of our fun finds after the tour was their collection on theater and costumes.
A theatrical banner for the Entertainments National Service Association (ENSA), which performed to boost morale during WWIIQueen Elizabeth II’s wedding dresses recreated for “The Crown”Shakespeare’s First Folio!
And I really enjoyed the jewelry collection.
Lalique tiara comb and bodice adornment, 1903-4More pretty baubles for the posh
If we lived here, Bob and I would love to be members of this museum to really take advantage of all of their exhibitions and educational academies. More of our day out on the next blog.
Before we fly back to the states, Bob and I have a couple of days in London. This is the first blog of our London stay.
On Wednesday afternoon, Bob and I returned to the Xenia Hotel in the Kensington Borough of London, where we had stayed a couple of years ago. since it is part of the Marriott Autograph collection of hotels, we were able to get an early check in. Bob had upgraded our room so that there would be space for us and our 2 big bags. So posh.
I did our blog about our visit in Cambridge and then we walked for a little over an hour to the Dukes Hotel near Green Park.
Some eye candyAn attractive hotel en routeWellington ArchNew Zealand Memorial Bomber Command MemorialInformative historical information The front of the Dukes Hotel where the Duke Bar is located
We had headed to the Dukes Bar because Bob had researched the best bars in London to treat me to a Vesper cocktail, which is my favorite. We had read that the hotel was currently closed for renovations but that the bar was still open. What we had not read was that they had a dress code, and we were curtly told, luckily outside of the bar, that we could not enter due to no collars on our shirts. So common!
This morning we went down for the lovely buffet breakfast and while we were eating we heard the hostess tell people who weren’t staying at the hotel that the buffet cost $40 US. It was free for us as guests, so we were back to feeling rather posh.
The buffet breakfast areaThe coffee/bar area just upstairs from the breakfast area
After our quick stopover in Windsor/Eton, Bob and I made our way to Cambridge to continue the early Beth Birthday Tour with a visit with our friends Susan and Peter. They met us at the train station in Cambridge and walked with us the few short blocks to their home. It is always good to visit with them, and the weather ended up being very agreeable.
We arrived about 3ish, and we also got reacquainted with one of our favorite cats, the regal Hugo. Here he is enjoying a tuna lolly after dinner.
Bob made a salmon salad for our dinner, Peter made an Eton Mess for dessert, and we ate out on their lovely deck.
Susan, me, and Bob
It was a great start to the visit. The next day was full of new visits for Bob and me — Sutton Hoo, Aldeburgh, and Snape Maltings. All sites in Suffolk County, which along with Cambridgeshire and Norfolk are in the East Anglia region of England.
Sutton Hoo — Sutton What? Bob and I were ignorant of this huge archeological discovery but were quite happy to get educated at this beautiful National Trust site, which provides a good overview of how Edith Pretty got the whole ball rolling in 1939 by asking an archeologist friend about some large earthen mounds she had seen on her property. Long story short, a lot of artifacts were discovered, including an Anglo-Saxon burial ship for King Rædwald. More of this interesting story can be found in the movie “The Dig” with Ralph Fiennes and Cary Mulligan, currently on Netflix.
Me, Peter, and Susan in front of Edith Pretty’s house on the Sutton Hoo estateA replica of the Anglo-Saxon burial shipThe viewing tower which overlooks the moundsThe mounds where different relics were discovered Bob with the first of 4 big heads for the day, (3 included in the blog) an artistic version of the Sutton Hoo helmet2nd big head sculpture, the Sutton Hoo helmet
After our visit to Sutton Hoo, we drove to the town of Aldeburgh on the coast of the North Sea for a walkabout along the coast and high street. Beautiful!
Colorful buildings along the coastOur coastal selfie Looking over the stone filled beach and seaA cute old building along the coast that served as the town hall for over 400 years and is now the Aldeburgh Museum
Finally, we headed back towards Cambridge but made a stop off at Snape Maltings. Snape Maltings sits on the banks of the River Alde with converted Victorian buildings, formerly used in the malting of barley for beer, that are now home to shops, galleries, a cafe, a restaurant, and a concert hall, which was opened by Queen Elizabeth in 1967.
Snape Maltings Concert HallBob with the final big head sculpture of the day, “Sysyphus”
This afternoon, Bob and I walked the small high street of Eton before exploring some of Eton College. We had read that on Sunday afternoons, you could get into a few of the college museum’s for free, so we took advantage of that as well.
A cute-looking store near us, which is unfortunately not open on Sundays.The Christopher Hotel on the high streetSouth Meadow which we crossed via a footpath to reach Eton College after meandering off the high street
A bit of background on Eton College. It is a boarding-only school for boys between 13 and 18. It was founded on October 11, 1440, by Henry VI (at the age of 18!) as a place of worship and learning. Currently, it provides education, sports, and extracurricular activities. It provides each student with a tutor to supervise studies but also to provide support outside of the educational curriculum as well.
Access to many of the campus buildings is restricted to the Eton College community (students, staff, etc.).
Part of the Natural History Museum at EtonMore of the Natural History Museum Looks like part of an old wall on campusThe school library, really wish we could have gone inThe college chapelAnother view of the chapelA small park called Barnes PoolThe Museum of Eton Life that we visited, which is where I learned my Eton factsSome hats on display that correspond to the different houses in which the boys live and for whom they would compete in sportsTop hats were a part of the required dress until 1948. The rest of this display is accurate— wool tailcoat, waistcoat, striped trousers, tunic shirt, stiff white collar with white tie.
Eton alumni are known as Old Etonians, and they are an impressive bunch as noted by the following pics, which are just a sample of the accomplishments that were noted for the alumni.
I am ignoring major recent events and not discussing the Trump bombing of Iran. Sick at heart that too many of our (Bob and my) fellow citizens have inflicted a mad man on the world. Instead I’ll focus on our quick visit today to Windsor and Eton, although Eton will be covered in a separate blog.
Windsor, as many know, is the home of Windsor Castle, one of the official residences of the British monarch and the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world. We opted not to visit (I visited many moons ago as a college student.), as it is $47 US per person and no photos allowed inside, but you can’t help but see some of the castle as you wander around the town of Windsor.
Some lovely waterside homes, as we crossed the Thames from Eton into WindsorLots of activity (and swans) on the ThamesThe high street in Windsor, which runs alongside the castleThe entrance into the Windsor/Eton Central Rail Station. This is not the station we arrived at yesterday, but the one we will be leaving out of tomorrow.Some of the many shops within the rail station The Windsor Eye in Alexandria Gardens A lovely fountain near the gardens with a peak at the castle in the background The side of the castle where visitors enter, with a statue of Queen Victoria A different side of the castle near one end of The Long WalkLooking down the almost 2.5 mile Long Walk, a tree-lined avenue created by King Charles II in 1685.Looking back at Windsor Castle from further down the Long WalkA random pub. Windsor and Eton are decked out in flowers.A pedestrian shopping street in Windsor with a view of the castle A cute little building that seems to be leaning Bob found a barber for a much needed haircut. This is early in the process.
Bob and I left the Isle of Guernsey yesterday and headed for Eton/Windsor for a short stay. (Just a note, that these towns are side by side, divided by the River Thames.).
Our homeowner was kind enough to drive us to the ferry terminal at 8:30 am for our 10:00 am ferry departing for Poole, England. It would be a calm, three hour sailing. We bought a light breakfast on board and spent most of our time read, finishing digital paperwork for our Airbnb in Eton, and taking photos.
The view of the Guernsey port from our self-selected seats on the ship.Sailing out of Guernsey The view from the back of the ship and a sailboat Land sighting through the window as we neared PooleComing into Poole 1Coming into Poole 2Boats anchored off of PooleComing into Poole 3Kind of nice to be able to see the couple on the sailboat
We deboarded in Poole, and while there were signs for customs, we didn’t have to stop and show our passports or fill out any forms. We had checked our big bags for the sailing, and they were ready for us to pickup by the time we got to that area.
We had about an hour to catch our train but still decided to grab a cab as we weren’t sure how walkable the route to the train station would be. For future reference, it is walkable and about 20 minutes, although going by cab was quicker and saved some wear and tear on the wheels of our luggage.
Public art piece that we passed in Poole on the way to the train station
Our train was to depart at 2:07 for Eton/Windsor via a train change at Clapham Junction. We then were to have a 45 minute layover for our train to Eton/Windsor and arrive into Eton/Windsor at 5:39. It didn’t play out that way, but it still turned out pretty good. On the upside, we got on a slightly earlier train (1:58), as the 2:07 was delayed, and we were able to find space for our bags and seats to sit in!
On the downside, the new train was also delayed, and our 45 minute layover in Clapham Junction became a 5 minute could have easily missed but didn’t connection. There was a discrepancy in the posted departure time for Eton/Windsor and what Bob’s app had. The train we got on had a lot of stops and got us in close to 6:00 pm.
It felt like a very long day. We walked what was to be a short seven minutes to our Airbnb in Eton, but we had a bit of trouble finding it. The directions the Airbnb sent us took us into a car park, but between our AppleMaps and GoogleMaps we managed to figure it out and get into our room.
Bob and I have had some lovely last days in Guernsey, as we’ve been mostly busy with doing last task errands, etc. before we leave.
Wednesday we had a good walk into a new (for us) area of the island, although the destination turned out to be a bit disappointing. However, we ended up finding a large, new grocery for a shop, so it all turned out okay.
A nice house on the walkChateau Des Marais, our destination. This was all it was, though it sits on a decent sized green space with a few picnic tablesA modern office building in between the chateau and the grocery.A lovely view of the channel as we headed back to the house
Thursday, I walked downtown for a couple of errands. Checking the GPS, it suggested a new walking route, so I saw a few places that we hadn’t captured before. The route showed the overlap of rural and more urban areas on the island.
This lies off of a busy street near the house.DittoA more modern building downtown, not sure if it’s an actual court building I was shopping in a store across from this church when the bells started ringing for a wedding.
Finally, Friday afternoon our homeowners arrived safely back to Guernsey, and we had a great chat and meal with them, cooked by Bob. It was awesome! Sadly, it did mean our last few hours with two of the sweetest, funniest dogs we’ve cared for. We will definitely miss Rosie and Daisie.
Rosie and Daisie Rosie cleaning Daisie’s earDaisie enjoying some belly rubs.