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Coventry (Mostly) Churches and War History — Part II (5/31/25)

Beside Coventry’s bustling shopping district is the Cathedral District, at least that’s what I am calling it. It has a church, the cathedral, the cathedral ruins, and the old historic council chambers as well as cute narrow cobblestone streets. It was definitely our favorite part of Coventry and what we would highly recommend for a visit.

The first church we saw was Holy Trinity Church. A church stood on this site as early as 1113 but was destroyed by fire in 1257. The north porch survived but the rest of the existing church was rebuilt during the 14th century.

Holy Trinity Church
The painting that you can just faintly see on the first arch is a doom painting (wall painting of the last Judgment when Christ judges souls to either heaven or hell), one of over 60 in England.
A memorium to local people killed in the Faulklands Conflict.
A tall chair made for carrying a Scottish Bishop into the church,
as at that time the Church of England law forbade
Scottish clergy to “set foot” in English churches.

The next few photos deal with the old Cathedral, the new Cathedral, and the destruction of Coventry during World War II. I’ll just apologize now that my history will be incomplete and the photos don’t do justice to the ruins or the new cathedral. Bob and I were beyond impressed and also moved by the horrors of war and the resilience of the local people.

Here’s a thumbnail description of my understanding of the history of the Coventry Cathedral. The Church of St. Michael, the parish church of Coventry, dates from 1300 AD. It didn’t become designated a cathedral until 1918 and was mostly destroyed (except for the tower) during the 11 hour air raid on Coventry on November 14, 1940.

Currently, you can climb the tower that is connected to the ruins of the old cathedral. The new cathedral is attached to one of the walls of the old cathedral, creating an impressive courtyard which was hosting a car show today. There is an underground museum in which you can (and we did) watch a video detailing the events of November 14, 1940, and view artifacts from that period.

The original tower and some of the remaining walls
of the old cathedral as viewed from the courtyard
One side wall of the old cathedral which joins to the new cathedral (see white cross and to the left)
Looking across the courtyard from the tower
The new cathedral from outside of the courtyard
The entryway to the new cathedral
The baptistry window on the righthand wall
as you enter the church.
Beneath the window is the font, fashioned from a large boulder from a hillside overlooking Bethlehem.
The nave, the painting at the front is actually a large tapestry.
A side chapel
A bell presented from Germany to the Queen Mother
on the 50th anniversary of the bombing of Coventry
A cross made immediately after the bombing
from 2 charred timbers of the cathedral
which had fallen in the shape of a cross
The chapel of Christ in Gethsemane

One final note on the Coventry bombing. The film noted that it was learned after the bombing that the Royal Air Force had been notified that Coventry was being targeted, but there is no evidence that the city was warned. One theory was that Churchill was willing to sacrifice Coventry so that the Germans wouldn’t know that England had broken their code. There is no proof that was the case either. The air raids on Coventry’s killed an estimated 568 people and injured another 1200.

The Herbert Art Museum
Draper’s Hall, built in 1832, the third hall on this site since 1637 for the Drapers Company formed in 1247.
The Council House, completed in 1918, in a Tudor Revival style.
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Coventry (Mostly) City Centre — Part I (5/31/25)

Another great walkabout in another interesting city in England, and Coventry is officially a city, as recognized in its charter of 1345! With a population of a little over 345,000, it is the 10th largest city in England and the 13th largest in the UK. These are fun facts from Wikipedia, which also noted the city’s industrial importance in the manufacturing of bicycles and then of the British motor industry, which made it a target for the Germans during the Second World War. We learned a bit more about that and other parts of the city’s history during our walk.

This is the first of a two part post. The second part will focus on the cathedral area of Coventry and what happened to it during the war. I do have to note that while we had a lovely walk, much more interesting than we expected, there sadly appears to be a large unhoused population, and we did not feel comfortable going into one, otherwise lovely, park.

Also, beautiful weather today, mix of sun and clouds with temps in the 60s F.

The Weaver’s House, a 1455 cottage,
restored to show how it would have looked in 1540.

Spon End is a diverse section of the city with a real mix of old and new, from medieval buildings to highrise buildings. It is the oldest surviving residential area in Coventry. We snapped some photos of the older buildings we liked.

The Old Windmill bills itself as Coventry’s oldest and best loved pub, dating back to 1451.
There were a set of these panels,
each dedicated to the history of an industry
of importance to Coventry, including watchmaking,
bicycles, cars, and ribbons.
St. John the Baptist Church.

There are a number of malls in the city centre. The Lower Precinct Mall also contains the Coventry Market, which has a range of stalls from food (produce, meats, seafood, spices, ethnic groceries) to fabrics, purses/wallets (Bob bought himself a new one.), perfumes, etc.

A couple of stalls in the market
A sandwich on offer at one of the shops.
Perhaps a better choice if you’re not planning
to be with others afterwards.
The central library in a main city centre shopping area
One of the modern highrise residential buildings

Bob and I are fascinated with the canal system in the UK and the narrow boats. We had to check out the canal basin when we saw it on the map. There were a few boats moored in the canal, and the canal side was lined with groceries and a couple cafes.

The entrance into the canal basin,a respite of calm
after the business of the city centre
A couple narrow boats in the canal
A statue of James Brinkley (1716-1772),
who apparently designed the canal system to unite
the Thames, Severn, Trent, and Mersey Rivers.
A great mix of old and new — a section of the old city wall
(in the park we couldn’t enter)
with a much more modern pedestrian bridge
Coventry Cross, a modern version of the historic market cross, which provides a timeline of important dates
in Coventry’s history
A statue depicting the legend of Lady Godiva’s naked ride through Coventry to persuade her husband to reduce taxes on the city.
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Frazzled Friday, First World Issues (5/30/25)

The cattle have been successfully herded and are now comfortably ensconced in their roomy motel room with a separate sitting and sleep area and plenty of sitting options. It was quite the traveling process and to throw in another metaphor we felt both shaken and stirred.

Long story short, two late, very crowded trains. I stood for the full 2+ hour journey in the entry area of both trains unable even to enter into the seating compartments due to no room for my bag and/or no room to sit. Bob was able to get a seat on the first train but had to hold his big but more flexible bag.

On the 2nd journey when we were both standing in the entry compartment with at least 4 others and their bag, one young man spent the entire trip talking loudly on his phone, including proving a username and password to something.

Once we finally arrived in Coventry, we had to search for a kiosk to print out our tickets for Sunday which will have us on both a train and then the tube to get to our hotel at Gatwick Airport.

A couple of views from our room on the 16th floor of the Ramada Inn in Coventry, which is part of another of our hotel programs (Wyndham).

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Final Outings in Shrewsbury (5/29- 5/30/25)

Yesterday afternoon we went back out to find the two sites we had wanted to see but didn’t in the morning — Shrewsbury Castle and Laura’s Tower. The entrance to both was directly across from the library which we had been at in the morning, but we had gone back to walk up the Castle Gate which actually took us away from the castle. Ah well, it was better weather yesterday afternoon anyway.

A cute little boutique hotel right near the entrance
to the castle grounds.
A building housing a museum
at the entrance to the castle grounds
The somewhat unimposing castle,
which was ordered to be constructed
by William the Conqueror in 1067.
It was originally used as a base of operations into Wales
but then used as a domestic residence
during the reign of Elizabeth I.
Laura’s Tower that you climb a small uphill path to
across from the castle.
It was built by Thomas Telford in 1790 as a summer house
for Laura, the daughter of Sir William Pulteney, MP.
A view of a train heading out of Shrewsbury
A view of more of the surrounding area from the tower terrace
The view of the lovely landscaping and historic buildings
as we walked out of the castle grounds.

We have had a great trip to Shrewsbury and would definitely recommend it as a stop on a visit to the UK. We are having a leisurely morning today waiting on our 12:30 train that will take us to Coventry once we change trains in Wolverhampton. We should arrive in Coventry about 2:30 this afternoon. Since we had a bit of time, we went out for breakfast to a cute cafe called House Coffee, another place we would recommend.

Bob’s view out the window of the cafe
My view towards the back of the cafe

Bob had an avocado sandwich, and I had a grilled halloumi sandwich with a side salad and an Americano coffee. Bob had already had his coffee in the room while I was running.

Our only complaint with our stay in Shrewsbury is the poor Wi-Fi service in the Premier Inn Hotel and our inability to open a window or get any kind of real air flow in the room. We don’t stay in these hotels very often and wouldn’t recommend this one. The location is great but staff have been nonexistent or rude (likely a shortage of them) as well as the other issues.

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A Good Perusal of Shrewsbury — Part II (5/29/25)

Onward through the walkabout. The next stop was the very unusual St. Chad’s Church. It’s circular, inspired by the Tour Magne mausoleum in Nimes, France. It was built by George Steurt and opened in 1792. Also, although I’ve never heard of St. Chad, he was apparently a prominent 7th century Anglo-Saxon monk.

The front of St. Chad’s.
The circular nave.
It felt like walking into the senate or house of representatives.
The side view of the whole church
from the large, beautiful Quarry Park.

Directly across from St. Chad’s Church is Quarry Park, a 29 acre parkland which has been Shrewsbury’s most important site for recreation since the 16th century. The most beautiful part of the park is the hedge-encircled Dingle Garden designed by Percy Thrower. The following are photos from the Dingle Garden.

Another statue to Sabrina, the goddess of the River Severn
Quarry Lodge, on one edge of the park
Some of the expansive lawn

From the park, we headed towards the Porthill Footbridge over the river.

The Boathouse Restaurant along the Severn
The Porthill Footbridge,
known as the bouncy footbridge by the locals.
The center of the bridge does move.
A pretty way to calm traffic
The sculpture “Quantum Leap” was built in 2009 to celebrate the 200th anniversary
of Darwin’s birth in Shrewsbury.
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A Good Perusal of Shrewsbury — Part I (5/29/25)

One big difference between Wrexham and Shrewsbury (besides the country of course) is that it is easy to find useful maps of Shrewsbury to help plan your visit. We used the map today to plan our walkabout to see the local sites.

It was an easy two hour walk as everything is very close, but it means lots of photos over what will be at least two posts. Technical issues with some photos, not currently understood by Bob or me, will determine whether a third post is completed or not.

The first stop was a Tribute to Local Heroes sculpture in a pocket park almost directly across from our hotel.

The first statue is a soldier, the second, the town crier, and the third, Sabrina, the goddess of the River Severn.

Next, we were off to see the impressive Castle Gate Library with a statue of Charles Darwin out front. The structure was originally Shrewsbury School, founded by King Edward VI in 1552. Charles Darwin, among many others, was educated here.

The building was completely renovated
and reopened as a library in 1983.

We attempted to find Laura’s Tower by the castle but went up the Castle Gate path by mistake. This didn’t get us to the Castle Grounds, but we did get a good view and saw the prison, which hadn’t been on the original plan.

The view of the square in front of the train station. I
like the colorful row of what appear to be thin buildings.
Shrewsbury Prison, built in 1793,
known as The Dana, after Reverend Edmund Dana.
It was decommissioned in 2013.

We then walked across the English Bridge (where our boat tour had ended yesterday) to reach the Abbey.

The Abbey, originally founded as a Benedictine Monastery in 1083 on the site of an existing Saxon Church.
The nave of the parish church with the roof and arches
reflecting the different periods of building.
Some 17th century tombs

We crossed back over the English Bridge on the other sign and saw this stone marker depicting the former geographical division between local parishes.

More Tudor style buildings

Then we headed along the old town walls towards Shrewsbury Cathedral.

Town wall on left and the cathedral
on the right in the background
The front of the cathedral

The building of the Catholic Cathedral was funded by Bertram Talbot and was opened with a mass on November 29, 1856.

The nave
The baptismal font

Directly up the road from the Shrewsbury Cathedral is the

Town Walls Tower, which is a National Trust Landmark
that is on use as a private holiday accommodation.
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Where to Bury a Shrew (5/28/25)

First, all good on the car front. Our car has not been towed, and we’re in coordination with the manager of the parking lot as to how to fix the license snafu. Good people exist in the US despite what our current leadership may indicate.

Now on to the vibrant Shrewsbury. We arrived about 11:15 this morning and were able to check into our Premier Inn as Bob had paid for an early check in. We had a bit of a walkabout in the city center and bought tickets for a boat tour at 3:00 pm. The city was hopping. Lots of foot traffic.

Things to know about Shrewsbury. It is a market town in Shropshire, England, sited along the River Severn (the longest River in the UK). It has a population of about 77,000 and is located 9 miles east of the England-Wales border. It is also the birthplace of Charles Darwin.

Some photos of the historic city center.

The train station
A Tudor style building with a historical marker
The old market hall in a main square
Some public art
A whole street of older buildings
We loved this building, which notes that
there is a medieval painting of The Lord’s Supper
inside the building
Fun facts about Darwin to ensure you are fully evolved

We also checked out Shrewsbury’s Market Hall with its range of local vendors.

And then we have photos from our boat ride.

On the boat
There are 9 bridges in Shrewsbury over the River Severn.
This is the Welsh Bridge.
Some impressive homes along the River
The Severn School, which apparently costs 50,000 pounds per year
Some condos and apartments in a former brewery building
The Greyfriars Bridge named for a local friary,
whose friars dressed in grey
The English Bridge
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No Surf, Just Turf (5/27/25)

Of course, we could not come to Wrexham without visiting the Turf, as it is as close to being in the stadium as we can get, and we feel like we know it from the show. Unfortunately, no sighting of Ryan, Rob, Wayne (the owner of The Turf), or anyone else that we recognized, at least not in person. Still, an enjoyable visit with mostly locals, including a couple of families with children. It must be nicer for the locals to have a relaxing night at the pub when there is not all the game day hoopla or bus loads of tourists.

The Turf
A painting of Phil Parkinson,
the Wrexham AFC Coach on a gate into the field
A photo about a 1934 mining disaster in Wrexham
Bob ordering our drinks
Seats with the initials of the 2 US owners
as well as HK for Humphrey Ker, an actor, writer, and comedian and also the Community Director in Wrexham for Ryan and Rob
Names on painted red bricks.
We’re not sure what you have to do to get your names on one.
Bob drinking a Wrexham Lager,
which has also been discussed in the show.
Club history along with a nod to Ryan’s most famous role
Some old with the new
The current state of the field
as seen through a hole in the tarp in the fence. Work is underway.

Now, we’re on our way to Shrewsbury for the next leg of our break between sits. It’s a short, direct 39 minute ride.

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Wrexham Heritage and Restocking in the Rain (5/27/25)

Bob and I are having a bit of a lazy day amid a little bit of traveling drama, more on the last bit later. The weather was clear this morning for my run but started raining before we headed out and promises to continue for most of the day. It’s not a bad or blowing rain just steady enough that you seem to get wet even with the rain gear.

As mentioned yesterday, we had to get over to see what we could of the football stadium, given that the season is over so no games nor stadium tours. While our interest in the Wrexham football began with its purchase by the American actors and subsequent documentary, the history of this club is much more impressive than that.

Per their website, Wrexham AFC was founded in 1864, making it Wales’ oldest football club and the third oldest in the world. It was founded by members of the Wrexham Cricket Club at a meeting at the Turf Hotel (a pub of the same name is now next to the stadium) to find a sport to fill the winter months and also in part by a local social club wanting to increase the enrichment opportunities for Wrexham’s young men.

The club has been promoted three times under the current ownership. We have watched the three seasons of “We are Wrexham” and are awaiting access to the fourth.

The Wrexham Train Station, where we arrived on Sunday.
We passed it today on our walk from the hotel to the stadium.
Walking towards the stadium
The stadium is currently called the Stok Racecourse
after one of the major sponsors.
As the documentary has discussed,
the ownership/management of these teams is not cheap.
The Turf Pub next to the stadium.
The pub and the owner, Wayne Jones,
have been featured regularly in the documentary.
The pub does not serve food except
through the butty van in the parking lot, cash only.

There is, of course, more to Wrexham than football, so we snapped a photo of St. Mary’s Cathedral on our walk back into the city center.

St. Mary’s Cathedral, the cathedral church of Our Lady of Sorrows, built in 1857 in the Decorated Gothic style.
To our sorrow, the Wrexham Museums
are currently under a major redevelopment.
We were thinking that might be a good use of a rainy day.

The Wrexham Museum will be significantly enhanced and a Football Museum for Wales is either being created or being moved here.

I have been needing new running shoes, a regular rain jacket, and a rain jacket for running. We had spotted a store yesterday which looked as if it might carry all three, and it did. We caught some good sales, and I am now completely rekitted.

Finally, for some really unwanted drama. When we started this leg of our travels, we parked our car in the bus lot in my hometown, which we have successfully done before. The only change this time is instead of paying ahead of time for the number of days needed, everything was to be done online.

You enter your license, which they have a photo of from when you entered, and pay for a maximum of 19 days. If you need longer than that, you add money as you go. Bob noted that our payments (2 so far — the initial and the next installment) have been pending but the expiration date has moved out. He was confused by this and upon further inspection noticed that he had entered our license plate with the incorrect last digit. So now we are waiting word as to whether or car has been towed and/or how best to resolve this issue. More to follow when we know more.

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Wandering Wrexham (5/26/25)

Wrexham is a city of about 45,000 in the northeast of Wales. It is the 3rd city in Wales that we’ve visited after Hawarden and Cardiff. Our interest in visiting is mostly due to our following of the documentary on the Wrexham football team after the purchase of the team by the US actors, Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenney. The team has improved (moved up a league) over the past few years and the team is now in the Championship League, but more on the football team tomorrow after we see the stadium and visit the next door pub.

Today, we walked around the city center, visited a local National Trust site, and viewed the parish church. First, some photos of the city center, which was not busy due to it being a bank holiday here, as in US but more stores seem closed.

I saw this big head on my run this morning,
so had to get Bob there for a photo.
It may be the first partially moss covered big head
(the one on the lawn).
Nicely landscaped pedestrian areas
An interesting Tudor style building

We walked about 45 minutes to Erddig, a large estate, home, and garden, which is a National Trust site. These sites tend to be historical heritage sites or other places of interest or natural beauty which are cared for by the National Trust, a UK conservation charity.

The grounds of Erddig are open to the public daily for no charge. You can pay to see either both the house and gardens or just the gardens. We chose to just go into the gardens, although we ended up seeing the exterior of the house as well as a bit of the 1,200 acre estate.

The lovely road leading to Erddig
We were there
One of the walking paths through the property
A small waterfall
Lots of creeks

The following photos are from the gardens that we paid to enter.

Our first glimpse of the impressive gardens
Smaller gardens near one side of the large house
A cute little hut in the garden
A lovely sitting area
A view back towards the house over the pool and gardens
Another area of sculptured hedges near a pond
Bright flowers
A little “secret” garden
The side of the house with amazing views of the area
The views

Finally, we headed to St. Giles Parish Church back near the city center. There has been a church on the current site since the 11th century, but the current structure dates to the late 15th and early 16th century. The impressive tower, completed in 1525, is a well known landmark. Two other fun facts, Elihu Yale, founder of Yale University is buried in the churchyard. Also, St. Giles’ steeple is one of the 7 wonders of Wales listed in a children’s rhyme, where it’s referred to as Wrexham steeple.