Bob and I left Bury St Edmunds today after seeing the happy return of our homeowners from their driving trip through Norway. Angus and Mollie were quite excited to see them. Our homeowner kindly offered to drive us to the train station as it was raining.
We then caught the bus replacement service to Ely, due to work being conducted on the rail line, where we had a short wait for an initially very busy train to London Stansted Airport via Cambridge and Audley End.
We are spending the night at the Hampton Inn next to the airport as we have an early morning flight tomorrow to Copenhagen. We’ll be flying Ryan Air for the first time, so are expecting to have to pay more for our bags as their weight limit is a little lower than other airlines.
One of the signs outside of the airport Following the signage from the airport to the hotel in the back left of the photoThe lobby of the hotel where we had a 1/2 hour wait to check in since we arrived about 2 pmThe view of one of the 2 terminals from our room on the 7th floor
We walked back to the airport to pick up dinner before the start of the England game in the Eurocup, and both the airport and hotel seem quite busy.
Bob and I took our 3rd trip east today on the East Anglia train in the direction of Ipswich. The first time, we went to Ipswich, the 2nd time we went to Needham Market (stop just before Ipswich), and today, we visited Stowmarket (the stop before Needham Market). It was a quick 20 minute ride.
Just as a random aside, I liked this quick journey because there were only two stops before Stowmarket, and I remember them because I seem to have immediately associated them with other words. The first stop out of Bury is Thurston (Howell III from Gilligan’s Island TV show), and the second stop is (Alls well that) Elmswell. This is the kind of stuff that amuses my brain, and don’t even get me started on the town of Diss. I can solo laugh for quite awhile with that one.
Anyhoo, back to Stowmarket. As we noted during our trip to Ipswich, there is a 17 mile trail that connects Ipswich and Stowmarket and that runs along the River Gipping. As we did in Ipswich, we started our visit to Stowmarket with a short walk along the trail. While the path was fairly clear right in town, it was very narrow and surrounded by tall grasses as we left the town center.
Our first view of Stowmarket as we crossed the raised walkway at the train station The start of our walk along the GippingLooking back at one of the bridges we walked under along the pathThe narrow path behind an old mill in townAnother bridge over the RiverThe narrowing path as we left the town centerA close-up of some pretty purple flowers along the pathMore purple Lots of green growth in the very shallow (at least this part) River
Stowmarket is a market town with a population of approximately 21,000. Unbeknownst to us it was one of their biweekly market days today, the other being Saturday. There was a fairly active high street, and we enjoyed our walk around town.
The bridge over the River Gipping that we crossed to go into the town centerThe church of St Peter and St Mary, which dates to the 14th century. We popped inside and much of the nave is now given over to a cafe.Walking towards the high street from the church The main intersection on the high streetLooking down the high streetOne of the local pubsThe Regal Cinema, which hosts live performances and filmsThe cafe and gift shop for the Food Museum. We didn’t spend the 15 pounds each on the museum, but the shop was super cute and they were holding a screen printing class.Part of today’s market stalls
As we start our last week in Bury St Edmunds, Bob and I are still finding new paths to walk. Today, Bob and I walked a bit on the Lark Valley Path where it runs in conjunction with St Edmunds Way. We headed to the train station to catch a path that brought us through a nice neighborhood to our desired route. Once on the path, we then walked north along the River Lark past a golf course before turning around and making our way back to near the train station for a Tesco run for ingredients for a kimchi omelette for dinner tonight.
Starting onto the St Edmunds Way/Lark Valley PathThe initial crushed stone portion of the path Looking east across the RiverDittoThe golf course on the west of the riverMore homes across the riverThe lush growth on the riverbanksThe now grass portion of the trailGolfers out enjoying the courseA lovely home and garden along the trailThe River LarkTrail signageAnother shot of the golf course. Bob collected 3 golf balls on the trail and returned them to the course.A bridge across the river for the golfers
One of the best parts of this UK trip has been visiting with former homeowners/now friends. Today, our Cambridge friends, Sue and Peter, treated us to a surprise outing to Ely. While Bob and I had visited Ely before while house sitting in Cambridge, today’s visit allowed us to see new sites while catching up. It was a lovely day in lovely summer weather!
The 4 amigos, Sue, me, Peter, and BobA statue of Garfield cat, known for frequenting the nearby Sainsbury’s, and his bench in a pretty Ely parkThe River OuseOne of the rooms in the cute Peacock Teahouse where we had a lovely lunchEly Cathedral, which began as a monastery in 673. It was closed by Henry VIII in 1540.The cathedral made a great location for the sculptural art exhibit by Sean Henry. The appropriately named Standing Man and Standing Woman.Bob and Seated Figure in the cathedral lawnA view down the Norman nave of the cathedral Looking up to the top of the West TowerqThe octagon, which separates the nave from the choirStanding Man in the north transeptThe pulpitThe tomb of George Basevi, a well known architect whose most important public work is the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge. He fell to his death when inspecting the West Tower of the cathedral.Lying ManMan Looking UpHeddaSleeperA local bookstore Inside the great bookstore
And to top off the great day we got to learn about the My BlackBerry isn’t Working skit by Ronnie Corbett and Harry Enfield. So funny!
This has nothing to do with the musings below. Just a reminder.
Whether weather? Wherefore art thou, summer weather? This is a tiny gritch in the big scheme of things, especially considering the man above and his possible 2nd presidency, but kinda surprised about the weather we’ve been having. It seems as if April may have been our warmest month. I think we may have had three days in Bury where it has reached 70 degrees F, but they have been quite spread apart. We are definitely not freezing but a bit surprised that we’ve had days in June that haven’t reached 60 and mornings still in the 40s.
Food. Bob and I rarely do big grocery shops while we’re traveling. While this would likely be more economical, it’s easier to carry smaller loads, and we enjoy the daily walk to the shop and also frequenting different stores. We have had a wealth of options here. To date, we have shopped at Aldi, ASDA (super store), Tesco (super store), Nisa Local, Waitrose, Co-op, and Sainsbury (super store). One of the things that we appreciate about the stores here is the markdown items section to help the older items sell. It always pays to check out this section for items we like anyway, especially produce, as we feel like we’re helping reduce food waste and they still cook or roast up nicely.
Books. Bob and I attended another book talk this week. This one was at the library, where they aren’t keen on pictures, so no photos, and was for a series of mystery books by the author Tom Mead. It was an interesting talk, although the moderator jumped right in with questions without presenting any background or introduction, but maybe that’s how these things go and we should have read the book first? Anyway, it was still an interesting talk, and we did learn a lot about the settings of the novel and some of the thinking of the author in terms of the 4 books he has now written. We have been surprised that these presentations come with free wine and/or juice and sometimes nibbles as well. I don’t know that this would be the case in the States for a book reading/discussion at a museum or library.
That’s it for now. We’re off to a gin festival tomorrow night at a cathedral, as you do, so will let you know how that goes.
Up the street from us and just around the corner is the West Suffolk Sixth Form College (similar to a junior college), where Bob read that they had a cooking program and a related restaurant, Edmunds, open to the public. Reservations are required while the restaurant is open during the school term, and by the time we learned about the restaurant, there were only reservations available for the lunch service. So today, we had a lovely long lunch while we helped to train some future culinary superstars.
Lunch is offered from 11:00 to 1:15, and there was plenty of staff on hand for food and bar service. There was also a manager/teacher helping to run things and checking on customers. All of our food was very good, and while we’re not sure our wait person has found his real calling (low energy, had to ask someone else for the answer to every question), he was very nice. He may prefer back of house operations. We’re not sure how the program works.
The Suffolk Regiment Museum at the end of our street and adjacent to the schoolApproaching the restaurant, which is accessed only from the car park and not from the front of the school building The view from the window near our tableThe interior of the restaurant Today’s menuWe both got the pea velouté appetizer. Very good!Bob’s bass main course My broad bean ravioli Bob’s brownie and some kind of ice cream. The menu said vanilla. The server made a point of coming back to say it wasn’t served with vanilla, but we didn’t understand (and couldn’t tell) the new flavor.My strawberry and pistachio parfait.
No more food for us today. We definitely recommend Edmunds for lunch or dinner. Good prices, great food, and good to help with training the next culinary generation.
Bob and I took the train today for a quick 25 minute ride to Needham Market to walk around the lake on a path we had seen from the train when we went to Ipswich and then check out the high street. See photos below from our short visit.
Needham Market Train Station Crossing under the rail line to the Needham Lake Nature Trail via a low-ceilinged cattle tunnel.Even I had to stoop going through the tunnelOne of the many informational posts about animals along the trailNeedham Lake, where tomorrow they will hold a circus-themed homemade raft raceA chainsawed bench by Ben Platts-Mills in the shape of SuffolkSignage for a longer trail that runs alongside the lake trail for a bit on its way from Oxford to FelixstoweDucks in the lakeA carved wood statue of mother and childThe Visitors Center (with a cafe of course) and playground Walking the path along the River Gipping near Needham LakeThe River GippingWe never seem to be far from sheepCarved wood mushrooms along the lake trail
We snapped a couple of pubs on the high street and popped into an old church and cute hotel.
St John the Baptist Parish Church, built between 1458 and 1500The interior of the church A glimpse into one of the bars in the cute Lime Hotel
Yesterday, Bob and I finally decided to check out the cafe at the Rigsbygate Sports Center that is in our neighborhood. In fact, we can hear people playing tennis when we’re in the back garden. The cafe was pretty low key with homemade cakes and folding tables and chairs, but they had a pretty impressive menu, and the staff were very nice. While there, we also learned that there is a bar as well that opens at 6 pm, but we’re not sure what days of the week. The cafe is open from 10-4, M-F.
A view of the bowling lawn from the cafeAnother view from the cafe, including houses that are across the sports complex from where we are staying
Last night, we went to the Moyse’s Hall Museum for a talk by a local historian who has written a book on the history of the Market Cross in Bury St Edmunds. The Moyse’s Hall Museum is a 12th century building in the town center that has been used as the town’s bridewell (jail), workhouse (place for poor people to work and live), and police station. It first opened as a museum in 1899. It currently contains artifacts from the town’s past and also hosts different events during the year.
Moyse’s Hall Museum
Adrian Tindall presented “A Neat and Beautiful Theatre,” the story of St Edmund’s Market Cross. He gave a very informative talk, especially for those of us confused as to why what appears to be a building is talked about as a cross.
Bury St Edmunds Market Cross, the topic of the talk
It turns out that a market cross actually began as a wooden and then stone cross, often attached to stone steps, at the highest point in a market area, where people could meet to trade but also pronouncements could be made or posted. This evolved into more sheltered structures to protect from the weather, and then these structures became more official buildings that might house other municipal type offices or space for artisans and even a place for touring actors groups to perform. Bury St Edmunds Market Cross had a similar evolution and was used as a theater until a bigger space was needed and the Theatre Royal was built. It hasn’t been used as the main center of trading for a long time and most recently served as an art gallery and then a space for creatives to work. Sadly today, the upper floors are empty and the ground floor houses a betting establishment.
On another note, a few weeks ago we were fortunate enough to be able to visit the Ickworth Estate with our friends. The Ickworth Estate was owned by the Hervey family. The patronage and support of the Hervey family was mentioned as being important for the building and/or maintenance of both theaters. It’s always fun for us to be somewhere long enough where we start hearing connections between the different places that we visit.
Bob and I were back at the Theatre Royal today for a 90 minute tour of the facility. The theater was originally built in 1819 by the architect William Wilkins as the New Theatre and was structured on the design of an amphitheater he had seen at Taormina in Sicily. A new theater was needed to expand the capacity for theatergoers in Bury St Edmunds, and increased such capacity from 350 to 780. (Ironically today, with the addition of more modern seating in accordance with safety requirements, the capacity is back down to about 350 again.). The first play staged in the theater was the British comedy ‘John Bull.’
The theater’s claim to fame is being the last remaining Regency playhouse in the country, although as our guide noted, the Regency period lasted for a relatively short amount of time, about 9 or 10 years, in between the reigns of George III and George IV.
The building and the land it is on is owned by the Greene King Brewery, however, the brewery sublets the management of the theater to the National Trust, which in turn sublets it to a local management team and board.
Walking down Westgate Street towards the theaterThe tour started in The Greene Room bar and cafe, which is in the 25 year old addition to the original structure Looking at the stage from the seats in the Gallery of the Gods level, the highest level of seats in the theater A bust of William Wilkins, the architect Seats in the boxes in the lower balcony. The seat in the middle is initially folded back and down to allow patrons to enter before unfolding the top and bottom sections separately to create the seat.The actual green room for cast and crew to relax when not on stageThe workshop with a large door for moving scenery pieces onto and off of the stageLooking out at the theater from the stage.
We are in June. Time keeps flying by as the world gets ever crazier, if that’s even still possible.
When Bob and I first got to Bury, we signed up for a number of events, most of which occur in June. Last night, we attended one of them, a presentation of “The Carpenter’s Story” at The Apex theater in the heart of the town center. We made a night of it and had some small plates and drinks beforehand at The Wine Cellar, about a 5 minute walk from The Apex.
On our way to dinner, we stopped into The Apex to look around, as we hadn’t been inside before. The building is two levels, with a ticket office and cafe on the ground level and an art gallery, bar, and lounge area on the upper level. Inside the theater, there are 3 levels, orchestra, and lower and upper balcony.
A painting of the Bhopal Gas Tragedy in December 1984 by Ayush Sinha. One of the paintings on display at The Apex.Looking down on the theater entrance and ticket counter from the upper level.View of the outside plaza from the upper levelOne of the bars on the upper level of The Apex
After our snoop around The Apex, we headed to the Wine Cellar, where we had a lovely, leisurely meal, including drinks, nuts and olives, tomatoes and burrata, and some great salmon with dill crème freche and sourdough bread. The restaurant is dog friendly as well, as a couple came in with their dog shortly before we left (no causal relationship, just time for the show).
The owner/waiter preparing drinksCheers!The active upper level of the theater shortly before show time
“The Carpenter’s Story” tells a little bit of the story of Richard and Karen Carpenter, but mostly serves as a way to share some of their more popular songs. The brother-sister duo performed for 14 years, recording 10 albums. Some of their best known songs include “Close to You,” “We’ve Only Just Begun,” and “Top of the World.” Richard was treated for drug addiction towards the end of their recording career, which was cut short by Karen’s untimely death at the age of 32 in 1983 from complications from anorexia. Even though neither of us were huge Carpenter fans growing up, there is something about hearing songs from your childhood that’s a bit comforting.
The theater pre-show. We sat in the lower balcony.
Of course, the duo that’s been our main form of entertainment for the past few weeks has been Mollie and Angus, the dogs that we are looking after. Mollie is our ferocious but sweet little guard dog, and Angus is the lovable goofball. Neither react to other dogs, so they’ve been very easy to walk.
Mollie and Angus just back from their morning walk Mollie fiddling aggressively with the pillow until it’s just right to lay onMollie and Angus playing with their toy. This was Angus’ way of crying uncle.