After a soggy start to the morning (first time I’ve been rained on during a run since I’ve been here) and a leisurely read of the big Saturday paper, (it’s the Saturday rather than the Sunday issue here that is the big one), I set off for Castle Hill to see what the views would be. The weather had cleared, and we’re headed for 70 F today before the day is through! Bob’s hip was acting up a bit, so he stayed home.
Castle hill (Wikipedia calls it a knoll, which might be more appropriate) is the site of the original settlement in Cambridge and was also the site of a Norman castle at one time.
I walked the back way to try to avoid the crowds that flock to the city center on the weekends.
A punter on the River Cam as it flows through Sheep’s Green (but which has cows and no sheep)The trail along the River Cam in Sheep’s Green, headed towards the Fen Causeway and onto Mill Pond.Mill Pond, located near a 19th century mill which is now a pub called The Mill.Clare College Memorial and Ashby CourtAnother pub, not sure why we feel compelled to photograph so many of these, but we tend to find them attractive, and it’s cheaper than stopping for a pint.A couple of restaurants/pubs across from Castle HillCastle HillLooking into town from the hillLooking away from town
After the long slog up and a bit of a rest 😁, I descended back to earth and made my way up Bridge Street to face the crowds and pop in a couple shops.
The Cambridge Museum under refurbishment More punting on the River CamThe mythical Isaac Newton apple tree where he was said to discover gravity. This tree did not exist at the time Newton was at Cambridge, and Newton was home visiting his mother in Lincolnshire when he saw an apple fall from a tree and began to consider the cause.
One of the walks recommended to us was in Grantchester and through Grantchester Meadows. Since biking is kinder to Bob’s hip than a longer walk, we decided to bike to the nearby community and then swing back to Waitrose, a larger grocery, to check that out as well.
It is a quick bike ride to Grantchester, about 15 minutes taking the more scenic route. I had run through a bit of the community, but since I run in the dark, I really hadn’t seen much. We biked through Grantchester Meadows and then by some pubs and churches as well. On the way back, we brought the Guided Busway trail.
The only negative of the little excursion was Bob forgot the bike lock keys, so we took turns shopping while the other stayed with the bikes. Below, are pics from the outing.
The path was paved.Another shot of the trail.Grantchester MeadowsInteresting that the parkland is owned by one of the collegesMore meadowsA view of the River Cam from the meadows Houses in Grantchester.This pub was at the end of the trail. We loved the flowers.Beth had read about this place last night.A modern pub/restaurant with 2nd floor (or in UK and Europe, 1st floor) outdoor seating.A pub and B&BA directional sign to get back to Cambridge.A nice church in Grantchester.A home has nice statutes in the yardAnother view of the River CamA memorial on Trumpington High Street, down the street from the grocery.
Today, we visited the Fitzwilliam Museum. We had heard about this museum from our homeowners as having an impressive collection that might require a visit or two. According to its website, the museum was started in 1816, when Richard, the Seventh Viscount Fitzwilliam of Merrion, bequeathed his works of art and library to the university along with £100,000. It currently houses over 500,000 works of art. The building itself is beautiful too.
The museum was a short walk from our house, just under a mile away. Along with many of the other museums associated with Cambridge University, it is free to visit, although we did give a donation when we reserved our timed entry tickets online. The museum has collections exhibited in approximately 25 rooms over two floors. We just perused the exhibits on the upper level today and hope to get back for a second visit.
First, let’s start with the building.
The Fitzwilliam Museum with columns adorned with posters for their Defaced! Exhibit (more below).The lovely main entry hall and rotundaLooking across the top floor over the main entry staircase The mosaic floor on the upper level of the entryThe top of the rotundaThe beautiful room that displays European artAnother stairwell with views of the University of Cambridge Judge Business School
During our visit today, we started with the current exhibit, Defaced! Money, Conflict, Protest, which focused on how the defacement of money (coins and paper) has been used through the ages as a form of protest. I can honestly say this had never crossed my mind, so it was an interesting exhibit to go through. There was a short video playing at the end of the exhibit which stated that physical money (coins and paper) currently only accounts for about 8% of the word’s money with the rest being stocks, bonds, bitcoin, etc.
A blown up version of one of the examples of defaced currency An impressive representation of a van that was safely blown up in London to celebrate the elimination of over £1.2 million in pay-day loan debts.In the same exhibit as the van, a charity then created a bank which made its own money to finance different charitable causes as well as help pay down debt.A cool Banksy reproduction, also in the exhibit, with flowers replacing something violent, maybe like a Molotov cocktail.
Then we moved on to check out Dutch, European, and Italian art as well as a room with flower paintings, inlaid furniture, and clocks.
Bob loved the blue in this cabinet from 1625.Beth liked this tapestry chair.And this service set.A special display was called Juxtaposition and compared the body of a young modern immigrant with the statue of a youth being detained against the wall.
Today we went (on the recommendation of our homeowners) to a second farm market. It is called Burwash Manor and is near the community of Barton. We biked the short 4-mile route out into the country, and the trail was 95% off-road.
Burwash Manor had a great mix of shops including a grocery with bakery items and prepared foods, wine shop, cafe/tearoom, flower shop, rug shop, gift shop, and a couple others. And oh, on Tuesdays a mobile fish monger sells out of his van. We did some damage in the grocery and will likely return for a picnic lunch and gift shopping, as Beth found some items of interest.
After a few days of intermittent and sometimes heavy rain, the weather was fine — high 50s. We have definitely had a great fall here.
The route started through Sheep’s Green near our house, and the cows were also enjoying the trail.On our way on a nice bike/walk trail.We passed a nice looking pub.The Cambridge Polo GroundsEntrance sign to the farm marketThey had good bike parking. We saw two other cyclists at the farm shop.A stick buffalo sculptureIn front of the grocery, deli, and butcher storeAging beef at the butcher’sThe fish monger and his vanThe courtyard and some of the other storesOutdoor seating at the cafeThe cafe menuA city welcome sign coming back into town.The cows were ruling the trail on the ride back to the house as well.
We haven’t gone out for dinner since we’ve been here since we’ve had good grocery shops and great cooking situation at the house — space to work, great oven and stovetop, etc. But we have decided to treat ourselves tonight and are going to a restaurant called Brown’s, which is on the way into town headed towards King’s College or Great St. Mary’s Church.
The Hotel du Vin, very close to Brown’s where we may head for a pre-dinner cocktail.Brown’s Restaurant
Last week we called to reserve a couple spots for today to do a self-guided tour of the King’s College Grounds and Chapel. We should note that during the time when students are in session access to the 31 colleges associated with Cambridge University is generally limited or not open to the public.
The tour cost 10£ online for each of us, and if space was available, 11£ at the door. The college and chapel was about a 25 minute walk from the house.
King’s College has been in existence for over 550 years and was established by King Henry VI, who also established Eton College. Both colleges were originally intended to admit a maximum of 70 scholars from poor backgrounds. The chapel, which was the only building we could enter, took over a century to complete. Below are pics from our tour.
Looking back towards the Gate House, where we entered the college grounds.The view upon entrance onto the King’s College grounds from King’s Parade, the green Front Court and the Gibb’s Building. On top of the fountain is a statue of Henry VI, the “boy king.”One side of the chapel. There must be refurbishments underway, as there was scaffolding on one end of the chapel and on the roof.E.M Forster, “A Passage to India,” “Howard’s End” is a King’s alumnus.A view of the chapel with the amazing ceiling and dark wooden choir screen. A pamphlet said the ceiling or “fan vaulting” is the “undoubted glory of the building.” The chapel is almost 300’ long and 80’ high.Beautiful stained glass windows.A painting by Carlo Maratha in the Whichcote Chapel off of the main chapel.Stained glass in the Whichcote ChapelThe painting Deposition of Christ by Girolamo Siciolante de SermonteZooming in on the fan vaulting.The choir area of the chapelStalls in the choir areaThe choir screen and pipe organ.Another shot of the choir area, do you see Beth?A view of the back of the chapelThe River Cam right behind the chapel.
Bob and I had tickets today for an 11:00 am tour of the Pepys Library at Magdalene College (pronounced maudlin, so I’m glad we didn’t have to ask for directions). This college is located just on the other side of the River Cam, so it was about a 35-40 minute walk from the house.
The library comprises the personal collection of Samuel Pepys (pronounced peeps, that one I knew, and now, so does Bob) that he left to his alma mater at his death in 1703. Apparently, Mr. Pepys was a Member of Parliament and worked as an Administrator for the Royal Navy. He also served as Secretary to the Admiralty under King Charles II and King James II. However, I was only familiar with him because of his diary which was published after his death. We read parts of it in my English Lit class, as it provides a good overview of the times in which he lived, not only of everyday life but also descriptions of the great London fire and the Black Plague.
No photos were allowed in the library, but we ended up as the only guests so had a personal tour. There are 3,000 books displayed in 12 lovely bookcases, and per his wishes, his collection has not been added to. It was great to see the old volumes and admire some handwritten ones as well as some beautifully typeset ones. Apparently, at that time when you bought a book, you only bought the printed pages and then paid to have it bound with a cover. Mr. Pepys always chose to place his seal on the front cover, the title on the spine, and his photo on the inside cover.
Today’s excursion was made even more interesting as it turns out it was Graduation Day for some of the graduate students. A few pics from the day.
A short cut-through path near the houseA memorial about Hobson’s Conduit — a canal along a busy street which was built to bring fresh water to Cambridge.We don’t believe this is Bob’s relation.Punters on the CamThe lovely Pepys LibrarySome of the graduates, here walking along Regent Street.
Today has been a rainy day, so we thought it might be a good day to check out one of Cambridge University’s free museums. The Polar Museum is fairly close to the house, so we headed there about mid-day for a visit. The museum presents information on the history of arctic and Antarctic exploration as well as polar artefacts, photographs, and written materials.
We weren’t the only ones who had the idea to spend a rainy day in a museum as the relatively small site was fairly busy.
The building that houses the Polar Museum. It was completed in 1934 and has always housed polar researchers and artifacts.One of the many lovely sculptures outside of the museum The quote at the entrance to the museum, proving that this type of exploration was not for the faint of heart.
The Scott Polar Institute, where the museum is based was formed in memory of Robert Scott who led two expeditions to Antarctica. On the first one, he set a record for going as far south as anyone had until that time. On the 2nd one, he missed being the first team to reach the South Pole by 35 days to Roald Amundsen, a Norwegian. He and his men never made it back.
A photo of the arctic circle on one of the domed entrances to the museumEarly exploration clothingModern clothingEven the loo is informative A photo of the adorable Hugo. Don’t believe he’s been to either pole, but he is snowy white and has been known to get out and explore his own neighborhood.
Our adventure today was biking a trail next to a second Guided Busway. Bob had seen it on Google Maps, and we were near it when we biked the River Cam to Waterbeach. The busway began at the Cambridge North Rail Station, and we rode it until a small village called Oakington, although it appeared that it would continue on for about 8 more miles to St. Ives. It was an amazing, very wide off-road trail. Below are pics from the 14 mile trip.
We biked from the house to the Cambridge Rail Station, then through town (both on street and paths) before joining up with the trail near the water and then onto Cambridge North Rail Station and the Guided Busway Path #2 (at least to us).
A cute tea room in the Cambridge Rail StationA pedestrian and bike bridge near the Cambridge Rail StationPublic art near a shopping centerSignage directing us to the Cambridge North Rail Station and a plea from Wes.On towards the river trail and Cambridge North, but first, cows.A view of Cambridge North Rail StationCambridge North Train Station’s massive bike parking.A Herculean statue (or a statue of Hercules) in front of the Cambridge North Rail Station and a Novotel hotelAnother statue in front of the train stationA drop off/pickup point for buses in the guided buswayA new building along the pathA pond in front of Cambridge Vocational SchoolThe Station House Pub in the renovated rail station in HistonCrossing signals for horse riders, something I’ve never seenA mural on a building where we ended our outward bike trip in Oakington
Bob and I braved the town center of Cambridge on Saturday, and it was hopping. We had avoided it last Saturday so don’t know if we were dealing with a normal weekend crowd or if it was larger due to Sunday’s Town and Gown 10K race.
We had a set route of things to explore but also popped into a couple of the shopping arcades while we were in the area.
First things first, planner Bob has found us a bus we can take from Cambridge all the way to Heathrow for when we leave the middle of next month. We decided we’d walk to the bus stop to see how the walk might be for us to catch the bus. The walk wasn’t bad at all, took us in the direction of the town center, and on the way Bob saw this.
Apparently, Cambridge hosted the start of Stage 3 of the Tour de France in 2014. Cool!
After the slight detour for the bus stop recon, we toddled on into the town center to see what was up (sometimes literally).
The Round Church, over 900 years old.Headstones near the Round ChurchThe lovely exterior of one of St. John’s College’s buildings Great St. Mary’s Cathedral, which has been the university church since 1209. It has a tower that you can pay to climb up.
While Bob (and his cane and unfortunately sore hip) waited outside, Beth climbed the 123 steps to ascend 35 meters to the top and see Cambridge from above.
The narthex of the churchThe entrance to the stairs on the roofLooking down King’s Parade, past King’s College and Chapel on the rightOverlooking Market Hill and the marketplaceKing’s College and Chapel and the Senate House on the rightGonville and Caius College in the foreground, followed by Trinity, and St. John’s Collège further backLooking over the King’s College Courtyard. Bob is in center of fence in front of courtyard.The tower’s winding staircase
Bob has been researching bike rides and had seen a couple suggested on an area hotel’s website. One was to Waterbeach, a small community north of Cambridge. He led us there today. The majority of the route was on a path along the River Cam. It was an enjoyable 15 mile round trip. Below are pics from the journey.
We turned around at the rail station car park in Waterbeach and made our way back. Bob’s hip has been doing better than we expected since we got here.